Savoring Pickled Mango

Reading this might just make your mouth water.

Joan Namkoong

Pickled mangoes, like these, have long been enjoyed. According to Harvard University Press, an 1806 dictionary gives instructions on mango pickling. photo: Olivier Koning

Begin a conversation about pickled mango and, within a minute or two, someone will admit that their mouth is watering. Just the thought of the sweet-and-sour, tangy juice that accompanies the crunchy, perfectly pickled slice of green mango has that effect.
Pickled mango is sold along country roads, at neighborhood stores or in the ubiquitous crack seed shop, and made by many a home cook, pickled mango is one of the "small-kid time," legendary snacks of Hawai'i.
"I grew up eating pickled mango on Kaua'i," says aficionado Warren Haruki. The president and CEO of Grove Farm and trustee of Parker Ranch judges pickled mango by its taste and texture. "It has to have a good balance of sweet and sour and it has to be crunchy." For those who have not grown up eating pickled mango, it can be an acquired taste.
While we might think pickled mango is a uniquely Hawai'i treat, it's not. It is made in Australia, South Africa, Thailand, Cambodia, Vienam and no doubt other places where mangoes thrive. Saturating mangoes with an acid like vinegar is an age-old method of food preservation used throughout the world.
There are as many recipes for pickled mango as there are recipes for apple pie, but the ingredients are simple: vinegar, sugar, salt and green mangoes. The vinegar can be white, cider or rice vinegar; the sugar should be granulated to keep the liquid clear. In his book, On Food and Cooking, food scientist Harold McGee notes that using unrefined sea salt, which contains small amounts of magnesium and calcium, will help to maintain the crispness of pickled foods.

Now that your mouth is watering, try this recipe. PICKLED MANGO 3 cups green mango slices 10 li hing mui (optional) 1 cup rice vinegar 2 cups granulated sugar 1/4 cup Hawaiian salt Place mango slices in a clean glass jar with li hing mui, if using. Combine vinegar, sugar and salt in a non-reactive saucepan and bring to a boil. When sugar and salt are dissolved, remove from heat and cool to lukewarm. Pour over mangoes. Cover and let stand for 24 hours, then store in refrigerator. Recipe courtesy Hawaiian Electric Co.

What makes pickled mango special in Hawai'i is the balance of vinegary tartness with the sweetness of sugar, the red food coloring used by some cooks, and perhaps, a little flavor kick from li hing mui, the five spice, sugar-and-salt-preserved plum.
And, of course, you'll need green mangoes. Look for mature green mangoes that have a hint of yellow; greenish white flesh is too tart for a good pickled mango. While using a mango that falls to the ground in a gust of wind is fine, a mango plucked with the intent of being eaten green is usually best. The imported green mangoes in supermarkets may not be a good bet, since their flesh has often softened a bit in transit.
As you peel a green mango, a distinctive, fragrant aroma will waft toward your nostrils, enhancing the anticipation of what is to come. Slice the mango, retrieving every morsel off the seed, pack it into a jar and pour the pickling mixture over. Wait a day before you plunge in. The pickles will keep several weeks in the refrigerator—if they're not eaten immediately.

Li Hing Pickle Mango

Li Hing Pickle Mango


Drooling yet?
We’ll keep today’s post short and sweet. Well, and kinda’ tangy, too, along with plenty of “zippity-zip-zap POW”!!!
I recently got a couple good sized green Haden-Pirie hybrid mangoes from my coworker’s yard, who noted this season hasn’t yielded much mature fruit on his tree worth harvesting. As you know, summer is mango season in Hawaii nei, which according to a news report, this year is expected to be  “junk” for mangoes (and lychee) due to “unusual weather” conditions. Kinda’ unnerving, actually.
So anyway, with those two still-green mangoes, I decided to make Pickle Mango, this time with a major Li Hing twist.
My recipe for this here absolutlely “supah onolicious, broke da’ mout’ winnahz!” Li Hing Pickled Mango is as followed (an adaptation from Sam Choy). Note this recipe doesn’t have the star anise and Chinese 5-Spice like I’ve used in the past, as the Li Hing powder makes up for that.
Li Hing Pickle Mango
2 or more large green mangoes (whatevah kine you get), peeled and sliced into long, skinny and thick bite-sized pieced
1 cup rice vinegar
2 cups water
2½ cups light brown sugar
3 tbsp. Hawaiian salt
2 tbsp. Li Hing powder (I used Jade brand, which is my favorite)
Red food coloring (optional, yet highly recommended for that drool-inducing appearance)
1 small package Sweet Li Hing Mui (I also used Jade brand, which is my favorite)
In a small pot boil 2 cups water, turn off heat, then add the 2½ cups light brown sugar and salt and stir to to dissolve it. Add more water if needed to loosen it up. Remove from heat and add Rice vinegar, Li Hing Powder, and just a few drops of the red food coloring, to the point where it has a “dramatic” red color to it. For the Li Hing powder, go by taste.
In fact, go by your own taste with EVERYTHING. If you want it more sweet, add more sugar. More acidic, add more vinegar. Use that recipe as a basic guideline and go from there.
Once the finished Li Hing Pickle Mango “juice” is completely stirred and incorporated, let it cool in the fridge (or quickly in the freezer). Place peeled and sliced pickled mango in an appropriate sized jar and tightly pack it in to displace as much volume in the jar as possible, then pour cooled Li Hing Pickle Mango “sauce” into jar with green mango and fill to top and cover tightly. Let it sit in refrigerator for at least 3 days to fully soak up the Li Hing pickling “juice”.
Whack ‘em ‘n enjoy.

Related Tasty Island links:
• Peter Piper Picked a Peck of Pickled Mango
• There’s Pickled, Then There’s Shoyu Mango
• Mayo’ Mango Madness
• Mango Bruschetta

Poached Shrimp with Honeydew, Radishes, Jicama, and Scallions 

 

Tangy lemon, salty fish sauce, and black pepper form the dressing for this refreshing dish.

Martha Stewart Living, June 2012

• Prep Time 25 minutes
• Total Time 30 minutes
• Yield Serves 2

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Ingredients

• 1 piece (3 1/2 inches) peeled fresh ginger
• 5 cups water
• 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
• 5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, divided (from 2 lemons)
• 3/4 pound (about 12) large whole unpeeled shrimp
• 1 teaspoon fish sauce
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 piece (5 ounces) honeydew, rind removed, thinly sliced lengthwise
• 3 radishes, thinly shaved on a mandoline (1/2 cup)
• 2 large scallions, thinly sliced on the bias (3 tablespoons)
• 2 ounces jicama, peeled and thinly shaved on a mandoline (1/2 cup)
• Coarsely ground pepper

Directions

1. Finely grate enough ginger to yield 1/2 teaspoon. Cut remaining ginger into 1/4-inch slices. Bring water, sliced ginger, peppercorns, and 3 tablespoons lemon juice to a boil, covered. Reduce heat to low, and add shrimp. Cover, and poach until just cooked through, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes (do not let liquid boil). Drain, discard ginger and peppercorns, and place shrimp in a bowl of ice water for 5 minutes. Drain shrimp; refrigerate at least 15 minutes and up to 1 day. Peel, devein, and cut shrimp in half horizontally.
   
2. Whisk together remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice, the grated ginger, fish sauce, and oil in a large bowl. Add shrimp, melon, radishes, and half the scallions, and toss well. Add jicama, and gently toss. Divide between 2 plates, season generously with coarsely ground pepper, and garnish with remaining scallions.
   

Cook's Note

Light and Layered
Poached shrimp, honeydew, and jicama result in a refreshing salad
Benriner slicer, $35, benriner.com.

 

Cucumber and Jicama Slaw 

 

A chili-spiced slaw of julienned cucumber and jicama pairs well with pork tacos, fajitas, or grilled shrimp.

Everyday Food, July/August 2010

• Yield Serves 4

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Ingredients

• 1 English cucumber
• 1 small jicama
• 1 1/2 teaspoons honey
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• Coarse salt
• 1/4 teaspoon chili powder, such as ancho or chipotle

Directions

1. Cut English cucumber into 3-inch lengths, then thinly slice lengthwise, avoiding center. Cut slices into matchsticks. Peel jicama and thinly slice. Working with several slices at a time, stack and cut lengthwise into matchsticks. In a bowl, toss jicama, cucumber, honey, and fresh lime juice until combined. Season with coarse salt and chili powder.

 

Cauliflower

Cauliflower–White Bean Dip

 

 

This dip is a great way to get kids to eat healthful veggies and beans. Also try it as a sandwich spread.

Everyday Food, March 2012

• Prep Time 10 minutes
• Total Time 40 minutes
• Yield Serves 10

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Ingredients

• 1 medium head cauliflower, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
• 5 garlic cloves, unpeeled
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
• Coarse salt and ground pepper
• 1 can (15.5 ounces) cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest, plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss cauliflower and garlic with 2 tablespoons oil; season with salt and pepper. Roast until cauliflower is tender and browned, 25 to 30 minutes. When garlic is cool enough to handle, remove peel.
   
2. In a food processor, combine cauliflower, garlic, beans, 1 tablespoon oil, lemon zest and juice, and 1/4 cup hot water. Process until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (To store, refrigerate in an airtight container, up to 3 days.) Serve drizzled with oil.
   

Cauliflower

Cauliflower with Ginger and Cilantro 

 

Sauteed with a blend of Indian spices, plain cauliflower becomes exotic.

Mad Hungry, January 2011

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Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 2 teaspoons grated peeled fresh ginger
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 shallots, finely chopped
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/4 teaspoon turmeric
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus 3 tablespoons for garnish
• 1 large head of cauliflower (about 1 3/4 to 2 pounds), cut into small florets
• 1/2 cup water

Directions

1. In a large skillet heat the oil over moderate heat until it is hot but not smoking and in it cook the mustard and cumin seeds 1 minute until fragrant.
2. Add the ginger, garlic, and shallots. Cook 2 minutes until soft.
3. Add salt, coriander, turmeric, cayenne, and cilantro. Cook 1 minute more.
4. Add the cauliflower, stirring to coat it with the oil. Add 1/2 cup water and steam the mixture, covered, for 6 to 10 minutes, or until the cauliflower is just tender.
5. Season the cauliflower mixture with salt and pepper. Serve garnished with the 3 tablespoons of chopped cilantro.

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