Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Food weekend

Azizza - beet sorbet and goat milk granita. freshing. palate cleanser. Fish spot on. Cooked with care and precision. Fluffy.

Cotogna - raw egg ravioli in brown butter. Bread to sop it up. $16.

LaVie - house crab defnitely good, but I think the salt and pepper with jalapeno crab is super good. love the toppings. had it with calaramari -- and we found excuses to put the leftover bits to put on to other dishes.

Thursday, November 25, 2010

udon

Secrets behind Udon Carbonara from Umami

Michael Bauer







Read more: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/10/15/FD151FPT6H.DTL#ixzz16HMzd2nF
East meets west seamlessly in the Udon Carbonara from Umami, the Japanese-inspired restaurant from Sam Josi and the other owners of Mamacita and Tipsy Pig.



For this dish Josi adds the flavors of Japan - kombu (dried kelp), bonito and thick noodles - to the classic ingredients found in the Italian carbonara, along with the added attraction of corn.



Generally I'm not wild about these types of cultural mix-ups, but in this case it works spectacularly with chewy, somewhat doughy noodles, coated with bacon-scented cream, eggs and, if you like, a little crab. Who would have thought that these flavors would blend so flawlessly? But one taste and I was convinced.



In fact this restaurant does many interesting cross-cultural mashups, including wax and yellow green beans battered with buckwheat and beer, fried to a shattering crispness and served with an eggplant-sambal baba ghanoush. The menu also includes edamame hummus, king crab potato cakes and ahi "poke" tacos. Yet the sushi, much of it flown in on weekends from the famed Tsukiji fish market of Tokyo, is as pure as you'd find in Japan.



With its cocktails and inventive food, this stylish restaurant has found an equally stylish Marina crowd, much like its sister restaurants.



Umami, 2909 Webster St. (at Union Street), San Francisco. (415) 346-3431. Open for dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.



The secrets

Udon noodles: These are thicker and chewier than normal pasta, providing a formidable texture to carry the meaty flavors.



Dashi: This seafaring flavor makes the base of the sauce, overlaid with cream and bacon; it adds an even more pronounced dash of umami.



Corn: The kernels add sweet, juicy bursts that keep the flavors from becoming monotonous.



Udon Carbonara

Serves 2 to 4



From Umami executive chef Sam Josi, who serves a quail egg yolk atop individual portions.



•Dashi (or use instant)

•2 pieces kombu (dried kelp), each about 4-inches square

•1/2 cup dried bonito flakes

•Udon

•2 slices high-quality bacon such as Niman's, cut crosswise into 1/4 inch pieces

•3/4 cup yellow corn kernels

•2 peeled garlic cloves, very thinly sliced

•1/3 cup king crab or Dungeness crab meat, about 1 1/2 ounces (optional)

•1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

•1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper + more to taste

•1 1/4 cups dashi (see above, or substitute with water or shellfish stock)

•1 tablespoon miso paste

•3 tablespoons heavy cream

•1 large egg yolk

•2 individual 6-ounce packages fresh udon noodles (see Note)

•-- Lemon juice to taste

•1 1/2 tablespoons chives, 3/4-inch lengths

•1 tablespoon toasted black sesame seeds

For the dashi: Wipe the kombu clean; give it a few slits with a knife to open up the tough, rough exterior. Place the kombu and 2 quarts water in a sauce pan over medium-high heat; bring to just shy of a boil - just until small bubbles are fully formed along the bottom. Lower the heat, discard the kombu and add the dried bonito flakes. Keep the pan over the heat until the bonito falls to the bottom of the pan, about three minutes. Skim foam then strain with a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth; let cool and store refrigerated in an air tight container. The dashi will keep refrigerated several days, otherwise freeze.



For the sauce: Cut bacon crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces. Place in large skillet and cook - stirring occasionally - until fat is rendered and bacon is somewhat crispy with some caramelization, about 6-8 minutes. Drain all but about 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat; leave the bacon in the pan. Add corn, sliced garlic, salt to taste, 1/8 teaspoon white pepper, and crab if using. Increase heat to medium-high and cook for a minute, stirring often. Meanwhile whisk the 1 1/2 cups dashi and miso together, add to skillet and reduce by half. Add cream and reduce further until it resembles a loose cream sauce. Keep sauce warm, but do not simmer.



To assemble: Meanwhile, cook noodles in well-salted water. Drain and add to skillet; toss until well coated; warm over medium heat until the sauce thickens and the noodles are heated through. Taste and toss with lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the chives and more pepper and salt if needed. Take off heat.



Place all the noodles in one large bowl, Garnish with remaining chives and sesame seeds. Make a small indentation in the middle of the noodles for the egg yolk. Stir at the table before serving.



If dividing into smaller portions, let noodles cool for two minutes, then stir in egg before serving. Garnish with remaining chives immediately.



Note: Udon can be easily found in Japanese food stores either frozen or in the refrigerator case.



Per serving: 471 calories, 19 g protein, 57 g carbohydrate, 16 g fat (7 g saturated), 86 mg cholesterol, 1,025 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.



Wine pairing: Try the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley Riesling ($14) to balance out the umami.



Michael Bauer is The Chronicle's restaurant critic. E-mail him at mbauer@sfchronicle.com, and go to sfgate.com/food to read his previous Chefs' Secrets columns.



This article appeared on page K - 3 of the San Francisco Chronicle







Read more: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/10/15/FD151FPT6H.DTL#ixzz16HMkqF6O

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Thai restaurants in Chicago

Thai something (need to get full name) in Niles, Milwaukee, off of Touhy

- deep fried catfish salad - which is really salad with a lacy catfish crouton. fresh, limey, sweet, crunch, cold, hot, and a little fatty.

- mussells with fried rice. Oh. My. God.

- dried meat sticks with jasmine rice on the side. the red Sauce. yummmm!

- thai basil chicken with fried egg. the Egg. lovely. crunchy, and deep fried. (Dang, why didn't I take a picture of this stuff? Bad blogger).

- ice cream with rabutan? a nice fresh way to end the meal.

Melon soup

Mix and Match Melon Soup



Ingredients

Serves 8



1/2 large honeydew melon, seeds and rind removed, cut into large chunks

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

1/4 cup Moscato d'Asti, or other sparkling wine or ginger ale

1/4 cup loosely packed mint leaves

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cantaloupe, seeds and rind removed, cut into large chunks

1/3 cup creme fraiche, or plain yogurt

2 tablespoons honey

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Directions

1.In a food processor, puree honeydew, lime juice, moscato, mint, and 1/4 teaspoon salt until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, and refrigerate.

2.Rinse out food-processor bowl. In food processor, puree cantaloupe, creme fraiche, honey, lemon juice, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate. Both soups can be made 24 hours in advance.

3.To serve soups, divide three-fourths of the honeydew soup among four soup bowls, and divide three-fourths of the cantaloupe soup among four other soup bowls. Garnish each serving of honeydew soup with remaining cantaloupe soup, and each serving of cantaloupe soup with remaining honeydew soup. Serve immediately.

.



Read more at Marthastewart.com: Mix and Match Melon Soup - Martha Stewart Recipes

Summer Melon Soup with Crab

Summer Melon Soup with Crab



Ingredients


1 medium shallot, minced

2 tablespoons snipped chives

3 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons sugar

4 cups cubed cantaloupe or muskmelon

Directions


1.In a medium bowl, stir the shallot and chives into 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice. Whisk in the olive oil and fold in the crab. Season with salt and white pepper.

2.In a small saucepan, boil the water with the sugar. Transfer to a blender and let cool. Add the melon and the remaining lemon juice, season lightly with salt and puree.

3.Mound the crab in the center of 4 shallow bowls. Pour the soup around the crab and serve right away.





Make Ahead

The melon soup can be refrigerated overnight.

Notes

One serving 271 cal, 9 gm fat, 1.3 gm sat fat, 24 gm carb, 1.5 gm fiber. .