Last night Karen, a half Italian, half Irish woman brought a Italian potatote zucchini casserole. So satisfying. So far the the only recipie I could find is this one -- but hers was tomato based. Potatoes sliced thin. She probably did it with a mandoline, but I'm wondering if it can be done in Cuisineart. Probably not as good, but possibly good enough.
Potato-Mushroom Pie
Ingredients
Serves 10 to 12.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for dish
1 medium onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 pounds assorted wild mushrooms, such as chanterelle, oyster, or black trumpet, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup finely grated Gruyere cheese (about 4 ounces)
1 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, about 3 1/2 ounces
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch-thick rounds
1 tablespoon finely chopped thyme leaves
3/4 cup whole milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
Directions
1.Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 13-by-9-inch baking dish; set aside. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add half of the mushrooms; cook until they are slightly softened. Add remaining mushrooms; cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have released their juices and most of the liquid has evaporated, 8 to 10 minutes. Add wine; cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has evaporated, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper.
2.Combine cheeses in a small bowl; set aside. Cover bottom of prepared dish with potato slices, slightly overlapping them. Sprinkle with half of the thyme and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Sprinkle with 1/3 of the cheese and half of the mushroom mixture. Repeat layering process, using all but 2 tablespoons cheese. Arrange remaining potato slices, slightly overlapping, around the edge of the dish. Stir together milk and cream in a bowl, and pour over top. At this point, dish can be refrigerated, covered, up to 1 day; let stand at room temperature 30 minutes before baking.
3.Cover loosely with foil, and bake until bubbling, about 1 hour. Remove foil, and sprinkle with reserved cheese. Bake until top is golden, 20 to 30 minutes more. Transfer dish to a wire rack; let cool 10 minutes before serving.
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Wasabi Deviled Eggs - A keeper
Wasabi Deviled Eggs
A hit at the Christmas party last night. Made them once before for Eliza's party. I even figured out how to transport them. Use the large shallow tuperware and you can fit about 6 or 8 halves each. Like any packing the trick is the nudge the last two eggs halves o everything is nice and snug. Possibly better than have a special deviled egg platter, which plastic wrap would smoosh unless it has some sort of cover.
Makes 16
8 large eggs
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1 1/2 teaspoons wasabi paste
2 teaspoons unseasoned rice-wine vinegar
2 large scallions, minced (3 tablespoons)
Coarse salt
Pea shoots or sprouts, for garnish
Directions
1.Prepare an ice-water bath. Place eggs in a medium saucepan. Add enough cold water to cover eggs by about 1 inch. Bring to a boil. Cover, and remove from heat. Let stand 13 minutes. Drain, and transfer eggs to ice-water bath until cold.
2.Peel eggs, and halve lengthwise. Transfer yolks to a medium bowl, and mash with a fork until smooth. Stir in mayonnaise, wasabi, vinegar, and scallions. Season with salt. Pipe or spoon filling into whites. Garnish with pea shoots or sprouts.
.
Read more at Marthastewart.com: Wasabi Deviled Eggs - Martha Stewart Recipes
A hit at the Christmas party last night. Made them once before for Eliza's party. I even figured out how to transport them. Use the large shallow tuperware and you can fit about 6 or 8 halves each. Like any packing the trick is the nudge the last two eggs halves o everything is nice and snug. Possibly better than have a special deviled egg platter, which plastic wrap would smoosh unless it has some sort of cover.
Makes 16
8 large eggs
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1 1/2 teaspoons wasabi paste
2 teaspoons unseasoned rice-wine vinegar
2 large scallions, minced (3 tablespoons)
Coarse salt
Pea shoots or sprouts, for garnish
Directions
1.Prepare an ice-water bath. Place eggs in a medium saucepan. Add enough cold water to cover eggs by about 1 inch. Bring to a boil. Cover, and remove from heat. Let stand 13 minutes. Drain, and transfer eggs to ice-water bath until cold.
2.Peel eggs, and halve lengthwise. Transfer yolks to a medium bowl, and mash with a fork until smooth. Stir in mayonnaise, wasabi, vinegar, and scallions. Season with salt. Pipe or spoon filling into whites. Garnish with pea shoots or sprouts.
.
Read more at Marthastewart.com: Wasabi Deviled Eggs - Martha Stewart Recipes
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Pears
Crazy sweet. Like drinking sugar water. D'anjo pear? Need to start taking photo of the fruit at Berkeley Bowl so I know the names.I wonder what the funny white spot is.
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Monday, December 20, 2010
Thai Papaya Salad
I love YouTube. I'm going to make this - with pineapple. Have everything but the palm sugar.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Research : Tofu
Two Classic Japanese Tofu Dishes: Hiyayakko and Agedashi Dofu
posted on 28 Mar 2006 by maki :: 10 comments
What's the best way to eat really fresh tofu? My favorite every time is hiyayakko (cold tofu), but agedashi-dofu (deep fried tofu with dashi sauce) is a close second.
Hiyayakko is plain chilled tofu with a little garnish on top. You can add any number of garnishes, but my favorite is simply finely chopped green onion, grated fresh ginger, and bonito flakes, with a little sprinkle of soy sauce. Don't add too much soy sauce or it will mask the delicate flavor of the tofu. In the summer months I could eat this every day. At least half of my square of home made tofu gets eaten as hiyayakko every time. In the summer, some finely julienned shiso leaves make a nice addition too, as are toasted sesame seeds, red chili powder, and so on. Think of what you might like to put on top and go for it!
Agedashi-dofu is deep fried tofu with a simple dashi-stock based sauce. It's not the same as aburaage (thin deep-fried tofu) or atsuage (thick deep-fried tofu), since agedashi is coated with flour and meant to be eaten right away. It's a very delicate dish, so be sure you are ready to serve this immediately.
The key to deep frying tofu is to press it a bit so that excess water is drained out of it. To do this, wrap the tofu piece in a cloth or in a couple of layers of paper towel, place on a cutting board, and place another cutting board on top. Put a cup of water or some other small weight on top of of the covering cutting board and leave to drain for about 30 minutes.
In the meantime, make a simple sauce of 4 parts dashi stock to 1 part plain soy sauce, and keep warm. If you have a bottle of mentsuyu (concentrated noodle soup base) or you've made my Japanese essence, you can use this also, diluted with hot water at a 5:1 or so ratio. Grate some daikon radish to put on top.
Unwrap and wipe the tofu, and coat in white flour, Fry in fresh peanut oil until a light golden brown on all sides. Drain well, put a couple of pieces into a small bowl, put plenty of grated daikon radish on top, and pour the dashi sauce over. Eat while piping hot.
posted on 28 Mar 2006 by maki :: 10 comments
What's the best way to eat really fresh tofu? My favorite every time is hiyayakko (cold tofu), but agedashi-dofu (deep fried tofu with dashi sauce) is a close second.
Hiyayakko is plain chilled tofu with a little garnish on top. You can add any number of garnishes, but my favorite is simply finely chopped green onion, grated fresh ginger, and bonito flakes, with a little sprinkle of soy sauce. Don't add too much soy sauce or it will mask the delicate flavor of the tofu. In the summer months I could eat this every day. At least half of my square of home made tofu gets eaten as hiyayakko every time. In the summer, some finely julienned shiso leaves make a nice addition too, as are toasted sesame seeds, red chili powder, and so on. Think of what you might like to put on top and go for it!
Agedashi-dofu is deep fried tofu with a simple dashi-stock based sauce. It's not the same as aburaage (thin deep-fried tofu) or atsuage (thick deep-fried tofu), since agedashi is coated with flour and meant to be eaten right away. It's a very delicate dish, so be sure you are ready to serve this immediately.
The key to deep frying tofu is to press it a bit so that excess water is drained out of it. To do this, wrap the tofu piece in a cloth or in a couple of layers of paper towel, place on a cutting board, and place another cutting board on top. Put a cup of water or some other small weight on top of of the covering cutting board and leave to drain for about 30 minutes.
In the meantime, make a simple sauce of 4 parts dashi stock to 1 part plain soy sauce, and keep warm. If you have a bottle of mentsuyu (concentrated noodle soup base) or you've made my Japanese essence, you can use this also, diluted with hot water at a 5:1 or so ratio. Grate some daikon radish to put on top.
Unwrap and wipe the tofu, and coat in white flour, Fry in fresh peanut oil until a light golden brown on all sides. Drain well, put a couple of pieces into a small bowl, put plenty of grated daikon radish on top, and pour the dashi sauce over. Eat while piping hot.
Research: Tofu Salad
Tofu Salad Recipe
User Rating 2.5 Star Rating (2 Reviews) Write a reviewBy Setsuko Yoshizuka, About.com Guide
Tofu can be a great ingredient in salads. This is a simple tofu salad with tomatoes.
Japanese Tofu Recipes
Japanese Recipes
Japanese Food Pictures
Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients:
•1 block silken or cotton tofu (about 12 oz.), cut into bite-sized pieces
•2 tomatoes, thinly sliced into half-rounds or quarter-rounds.
•1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
•2 shiso leaves, sliced into thin strips *optional
•*For dressing
•3 Tbsp soy sauce
•1 Tbsp sesame oil
•1 Tbsp rice wine vinegar
•1/2 Tbsp sugar
Preparation:
1.Heat a little bit of oil in a small skillet and fry garlic slices until browned.
2.Arrange tomatoes and tofu on a plate.
3.Top with shiso leaves.
4.Sprinkle fried garlic over the salad.
5.Mix soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, and sesame oil in a small bowl.
6.Pour the dressing over the salad before eating.
.
User Rating 2.5 Star Rating (2 Reviews) Write a reviewBy Setsuko Yoshizuka, About.com Guide
Tofu can be a great ingredient in salads. This is a simple tofu salad with tomatoes.
Japanese Tofu Recipes
Japanese Recipes
Japanese Food Pictures
Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients:
•1 block silken or cotton tofu (about 12 oz.), cut into bite-sized pieces
•2 tomatoes, thinly sliced into half-rounds or quarter-rounds.
•1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
•2 shiso leaves, sliced into thin strips *optional
•*For dressing
•3 Tbsp soy sauce
•1 Tbsp sesame oil
•1 Tbsp rice wine vinegar
•1/2 Tbsp sugar
Preparation:
1.Heat a little bit of oil in a small skillet and fry garlic slices until browned.
2.Arrange tomatoes and tofu on a plate.
3.Top with shiso leaves.
4.Sprinkle fried garlic over the salad.
5.Mix soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, and sesame oil in a small bowl.
6.Pour the dressing over the salad before eating.
.
Research: Tofu Salad
Shiraae Recipe
Be the first to write a reviewBy Setsuko Yoshizuka
Shiraae is a traditional Japanese tofu dish in which various ingredients are dressed with seasoned mashed tofu.
Japanese Tofu Recipes
Japanese Recipes
Japanese Food Pictures
Ingredients:
•14 oz cotton tofu (firm tofu)
•1/4 lb carrots, peeled and cut into thin strips
•4 shiitake mushroom, stemed and thinly sliced
•1/2 lb fresh spinach
•1/2 cup dashi
•2 Tbsp mirin
•2 Tbsp soy sauce
•2 tsp sugar
•*for seasoning tofu sauce
•2 Ttbsp roasted white sesame seeds
•2 Tbsp soy sauce
•2 1/2 Tbsp sugar
Preparation:
Lightly boil tofu. Wrap the tofu with paper towels and place a cutting board on top of it. Leave it for about 20 minutes to remove the water. Put dashi, mirin, soy sauce, and sugar in a small pan and bring to a boil. Add carrot and shiitake mushroom and simmer on medium heat until carrots are softened. Set aside. Boil lots of water in a large pot. Boil spinach for about one minute. Drain and soak the spinach in water until cool. Drain and squeeze the spinach to remove the excess liquid. Cut spinach into about 1 inch lengths. Mash and strain tofu through a strainer to a large bowl. Grind roasted sesame seeds in suribashi (or spice grinder). Mix soy sauce and sugar in the sesame seeds. Season mashed tofu with the sauce. Drain carrot and shiitake and add in the tofu. Add spinach and mix with tofu.
*Makes 4 servings
Be the first to write a reviewBy Setsuko Yoshizuka
Shiraae is a traditional Japanese tofu dish in which various ingredients are dressed with seasoned mashed tofu.
Japanese Tofu Recipes
Japanese Recipes
Japanese Food Pictures
Ingredients:
•14 oz cotton tofu (firm tofu)
•1/4 lb carrots, peeled and cut into thin strips
•4 shiitake mushroom, stemed and thinly sliced
•1/2 lb fresh spinach
•1/2 cup dashi
•2 Tbsp mirin
•2 Tbsp soy sauce
•2 tsp sugar
•*for seasoning tofu sauce
•2 Ttbsp roasted white sesame seeds
•2 Tbsp soy sauce
•2 1/2 Tbsp sugar
Preparation:
Lightly boil tofu. Wrap the tofu with paper towels and place a cutting board on top of it. Leave it for about 20 minutes to remove the water. Put dashi, mirin, soy sauce, and sugar in a small pan and bring to a boil. Add carrot and shiitake mushroom and simmer on medium heat until carrots are softened. Set aside. Boil lots of water in a large pot. Boil spinach for about one minute. Drain and soak the spinach in water until cool. Drain and squeeze the spinach to remove the excess liquid. Cut spinach into about 1 inch lengths. Mash and strain tofu through a strainer to a large bowl. Grind roasted sesame seeds in suribashi (or spice grinder). Mix soy sauce and sugar in the sesame seeds. Season mashed tofu with the sauce. Drain carrot and shiitake and add in the tofu. Add spinach and mix with tofu.
*Makes 4 servings
Research: Tofu
Yudofu Recipe - Tofu Recipe
User Rating 5 Star Rating (1 Review) Write a reviewBy Setsuko Yoshizuka,
Yudofu is a simple but delicious tofu dish. Tofu pieces are simmered in plain dashi soup at the table. Serve toppings and individual dipping bowls on the side.
Japanese Tofu Recipes
Japanese Recipes
Japanese Food Pictures
Ingredients:
•2 blocks cotton tofu
•6 inches konbu (kelp)
•For dipping sauce:
•2 cups dashi soup
•1/3 cup soy sauce
•1 Tbsp mirin
•For toppings:
•katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)
•chopped scallions or green onion
•grated ginger
Preparation:
Clean the konbu with wet towel. Put the konbu and 5 cups of water in a donabe (earthenware pot) and leave it for a few hours. Cut tofu into small blocks. Put the donabe over low heat at the table. Add tofu in the pot and cook until hot. Combine dashi soup stock, soy sauce, and mirin in a sauce pan and heat to make a dipping sauce. Pour the dipping sauce into individual serving bowls. Add some topping in the bowl and dip hot
User Rating 5 Star Rating (1 Review) Write a reviewBy Setsuko Yoshizuka,
Yudofu is a simple but delicious tofu dish. Tofu pieces are simmered in plain dashi soup at the table. Serve toppings and individual dipping bowls on the side.
Japanese Tofu Recipes
Japanese Recipes
Japanese Food Pictures
Ingredients:
•2 blocks cotton tofu
•6 inches konbu (kelp)
•For dipping sauce:
•2 cups dashi soup
•1/3 cup soy sauce
•1 Tbsp mirin
•For toppings:
•katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)
•chopped scallions or green onion
•grated ginger
Preparation:
Clean the konbu with wet towel. Put the konbu and 5 cups of water in a donabe (earthenware pot) and leave it for a few hours. Cut tofu into small blocks. Put the donabe over low heat at the table. Add tofu in the pot and cook until hot. Combine dashi soup stock, soy sauce, and mirin in a sauce pan and heat to make a dipping sauce. Pour the dipping sauce into individual serving bowls. Add some topping in the bowl and dip hot
Japanese curry
Japanese Curry with Crispy Tofu Cutlets (Tofu Katsu Kare)
08/13/2009 by culinspiration
Rumor has it that curry made its way from India to Japan during the colonial period via the British navy. There it morphed into a mild, savory-sweet roux-based sauce that’s the perfect counterpoint to a crispy piece of pork or tofu. If you’re used to eating coconut-milk laden or incredibly spicy curries, Japanese curry is a refreshing change of pace.
Intrigued?
It’s dead easy to make, armed with a box of Japanese curry roux.
1. Drain, slice, and season firm tofu with salt, pepper, garlic powder, and cayenne. Put a pot of rice on to simmer.
2. Coarsely chop and saute together carrots, potatos, onions, sweet potato, red bell pepper, and a bit of eggplant.*
3. Dredge seasoned tofu in flour. Dip in beaten egg, then coat with panko (Japanese bread crumbs). Season with salt.
4. Preheat oven to 375F. Lightly grease a baking sheet with oil. Arrange cutlets evenly on sheet and begin baking. Occasionally rotate the pan, but do not flip the cutlets.
5. Chop a 100 g. brick of hot Japanese curry roux into pieces and add to the vegetables. Add 3 c. water. Stir often so the roux doesn’t stick. Add ground black pepper and a dash of sugar to taste.
6. Check the cutlets. If they haven’t fully browned, briefly crisp them under the broiler. Plate with rice and a generous serving of curry. Serve with a cool beer.
*Eggplant may not be a traditional ingredient…but it’s damn tasty in
this curry.
p.s. Nytimes.com has an interesting story on Japanese curry
08/13/2009 by culinspiration
Rumor has it that curry made its way from India to Japan during the colonial period via the British navy. There it morphed into a mild, savory-sweet roux-based sauce that’s the perfect counterpoint to a crispy piece of pork or tofu. If you’re used to eating coconut-milk laden or incredibly spicy curries, Japanese curry is a refreshing change of pace.
Intrigued?
It’s dead easy to make, armed with a box of Japanese curry roux.
1. Drain, slice, and season firm tofu with salt, pepper, garlic powder, and cayenne. Put a pot of rice on to simmer.
2. Coarsely chop and saute together carrots, potatos, onions, sweet potato, red bell pepper, and a bit of eggplant.*
3. Dredge seasoned tofu in flour. Dip in beaten egg, then coat with panko (Japanese bread crumbs). Season with salt.
4. Preheat oven to 375F. Lightly grease a baking sheet with oil. Arrange cutlets evenly on sheet and begin baking. Occasionally rotate the pan, but do not flip the cutlets.
5. Chop a 100 g. brick of hot Japanese curry roux into pieces and add to the vegetables. Add 3 c. water. Stir often so the roux doesn’t stick. Add ground black pepper and a dash of sugar to taste.
6. Check the cutlets. If they haven’t fully browned, briefly crisp them under the broiler. Plate with rice and a generous serving of curry. Serve with a cool beer.
*Eggplant may not be a traditional ingredient…but it’s damn tasty in
this curry.
p.s. Nytimes.com has an interesting story on Japanese curry
Japanese Curry - NYT
Food: The Way We Eat
By SAM SIFTON
Published: October 23, 2008
It is Japan’s chili, its bacon cheeseburger, its meatloaf and gravy all in one, a hangover-killing man meal found in bars and restaurants up and down the country narrow, never as good as Mom’s. It is katsu curry: a thick, fragrant, porky roux glopped across delicate short-grain rice and topped — gilded, really — with a deep-fried pork cutlet, served beside a tangle of shredded cabbage. It’s great.
Skip to next paragraph
Related
Recipes: Katsu Curry (October 26, 2008)
Enlarge This Image
Lars Klove for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Jill Santopietro
As an American weekend meal cooked for friends and family and served before an evening of televised football or after an afternoon of the real thing, katsu curry reaches heights to which stews and soups can only aspire as they sit warm and bubbling in their enameled pots. Katsu curry defines rib-sticking. Fiery, rich and deep with smoky flavor, it towers above delicious.
It is remarkably easy to make. It is harder to explain. Curry, after all, is not a traditionally Japanese ingredient. Nor is roux, that nut-brown combination of flour and butter that provides a sturdy base for many French sauces. Fried pork cutlets, which the Japanese call tonkatsu, are also European in origin.
How these three came together is a matter of some speculation. When they did is not: katsu curry dates to the Meiji era of the late 19th century, soon after the opening of Japan’s borders. Japanese trade with the West led to a national fascination with foreign flavors and textures — a kind of reverse-twist culinary version of the Japonisme that gripped Europe around the same time. (There was until recently a curry museum located in Yokohama, one of Japan’s most prominent ports.)
“Indian curry came to Japan from England,” explained Hiroko Shimbo, the Japanese chef and cookbook author. “Roux of course came from France.” It was only natural that someone would put them in the same dish, she added, then paused for a moment and laughed. “It’s perfect for Americans,” she said. “It’s a very American impulse to mix.”
Hirokazu Miyamori must have thought so, too. Miyamori is the proprietor of a chain of 26 Go Go Curry restaurants in Japan; he opened his 27th in Manhattan’s garment district in 2007. The restaurant was an instant lunchtime hit and is packed daily with rheumy-eyed young office workers solving last night’s problems with a massive lunch alongside Japanese tourists getting their version of a hometown fast-food fix. You could eat in the place every noon for a week and not figure out how to make the stuff. Better to call Japan and ask to speak with the boss.
It turned out Miyamori was in New York. He emerged from the restaurant’s basement that very afternoon wearing a Yankees warm-up suit and an apron. “Curry is a comfort food,” he said. “It is an energy food, a power food, a guilty pleasure.”
Miyamori, it should be noted, has taken a seat at the nuttier end of the food spectrum. A small man with short-cropped hair and lively eyes, he is from Kanazawa, a city on the Sea of Japan in Ishikawa prefecture, where the Yankees outfielder Hideki Matsui went to high school. Much about his restaurant derives from this fact. Matsui’s jersey number is 55. Translated into phonetic Japanese, that number becomes “go go”: five-five curry. Go Go Curry offers discounts on the 5th, 15th and 25th of every month; it takes a beating at the register every May 5.
Unwilling to share his recipe for curry beyond allowing that it would be familiar to anyone raised in Ishikawa, Miyamori revealed only that it has “55 processes, and takes five hours to cook.” Is there ginger in it? The chef nodded sagely. “Yes,” he said. “And pork.”
Shimbo was more forthcoming. Japanese curry, she said, is generally thicker and sweeter than Indian curries, and while many Japanese make it from premade blocks of curried roux, softened with hot water and mixed with vegetables, the responsible cook should always cook it from scratch. “The cubes are all chemicals,” she said.
And so it was off to the store for onions and garlic, mangoes, apples, carrots and chicken stock, ground pork, pork chops, rice, panko and curry powder. It is a grocery list that in this modern age would not test even a provincial supermarket, though Japanese curry powder (S&B is the most popular variety) remains elusive prey; in a pinch, any fresh variety will do.
Simple jobs followed: melt a great deal of butter in a Dutch oven. Brown the ground pork. Add flour and curry powder and cook the roux into darkness. Add puréed fruits, vegetables, aromatics, broth. Leave the resulting stew to cook, and then to cook some more. The result should be gooey, though not in a floury way, and sludgelike in only the most complimentary sense.
Now fry your cutlets. Shimbo argues for a double-dipped chop: each one run through its coating twice before entering a hot-oil bath. The result was heroic in size and the perfect golden foil for the top of the dish.
Compose each plate: rice, curry (and lots of it), pork cutlet cut on the bias, a drizzle of, if you like, the pungent ketchup known as tonkatsu sauce and a child’s handful of cabbage on the side. This is British Indian food as imagined by excited Japanese and cooked in the United States a hundred years later, a small triumph of postcolonial cuisine, a culture mashup of the most delicious sort. Go, go!
Currying Favor
By SAM SIFTONPublished: October 23, 2008
It is Japan’s chili, its bacon cheeseburger, its meatloaf and gravy all in one, a hangover-killing man meal found in bars and restaurants up and down the country narrow, never as good as Mom’s. It is katsu curry: a thick, fragrant, porky roux glopped across delicate short-grain rice and topped — gilded, really — with a deep-fried pork cutlet, served beside a tangle of shredded cabbage. It’s great.
Skip to next paragraph
Related
Recipes: Katsu Curry (October 26, 2008)
Enlarge This Image
Lars Klove for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Jill Santopietro
As an American weekend meal cooked for friends and family and served before an evening of televised football or after an afternoon of the real thing, katsu curry reaches heights to which stews and soups can only aspire as they sit warm and bubbling in their enameled pots. Katsu curry defines rib-sticking. Fiery, rich and deep with smoky flavor, it towers above delicious.
It is remarkably easy to make. It is harder to explain. Curry, after all, is not a traditionally Japanese ingredient. Nor is roux, that nut-brown combination of flour and butter that provides a sturdy base for many French sauces. Fried pork cutlets, which the Japanese call tonkatsu, are also European in origin.
How these three came together is a matter of some speculation. When they did is not: katsu curry dates to the Meiji era of the late 19th century, soon after the opening of Japan’s borders. Japanese trade with the West led to a national fascination with foreign flavors and textures — a kind of reverse-twist culinary version of the Japonisme that gripped Europe around the same time. (There was until recently a curry museum located in Yokohama, one of Japan’s most prominent ports.)
“Indian curry came to Japan from England,” explained Hiroko Shimbo, the Japanese chef and cookbook author. “Roux of course came from France.” It was only natural that someone would put them in the same dish, she added, then paused for a moment and laughed. “It’s perfect for Americans,” she said. “It’s a very American impulse to mix.”
Hirokazu Miyamori must have thought so, too. Miyamori is the proprietor of a chain of 26 Go Go Curry restaurants in Japan; he opened his 27th in Manhattan’s garment district in 2007. The restaurant was an instant lunchtime hit and is packed daily with rheumy-eyed young office workers solving last night’s problems with a massive lunch alongside Japanese tourists getting their version of a hometown fast-food fix. You could eat in the place every noon for a week and not figure out how to make the stuff. Better to call Japan and ask to speak with the boss.
It turned out Miyamori was in New York. He emerged from the restaurant’s basement that very afternoon wearing a Yankees warm-up suit and an apron. “Curry is a comfort food,” he said. “It is an energy food, a power food, a guilty pleasure.”
Miyamori, it should be noted, has taken a seat at the nuttier end of the food spectrum. A small man with short-cropped hair and lively eyes, he is from Kanazawa, a city on the Sea of Japan in Ishikawa prefecture, where the Yankees outfielder Hideki Matsui went to high school. Much about his restaurant derives from this fact. Matsui’s jersey number is 55. Translated into phonetic Japanese, that number becomes “go go”: five-five curry. Go Go Curry offers discounts on the 5th, 15th and 25th of every month; it takes a beating at the register every May 5.
Unwilling to share his recipe for curry beyond allowing that it would be familiar to anyone raised in Ishikawa, Miyamori revealed only that it has “55 processes, and takes five hours to cook.” Is there ginger in it? The chef nodded sagely. “Yes,” he said. “And pork.”
Shimbo was more forthcoming. Japanese curry, she said, is generally thicker and sweeter than Indian curries, and while many Japanese make it from premade blocks of curried roux, softened with hot water and mixed with vegetables, the responsible cook should always cook it from scratch. “The cubes are all chemicals,” she said.
And so it was off to the store for onions and garlic, mangoes, apples, carrots and chicken stock, ground pork, pork chops, rice, panko and curry powder. It is a grocery list that in this modern age would not test even a provincial supermarket, though Japanese curry powder (S&B is the most popular variety) remains elusive prey; in a pinch, any fresh variety will do.
Simple jobs followed: melt a great deal of butter in a Dutch oven. Brown the ground pork. Add flour and curry powder and cook the roux into darkness. Add puréed fruits, vegetables, aromatics, broth. Leave the resulting stew to cook, and then to cook some more. The result should be gooey, though not in a floury way, and sludgelike in only the most complimentary sense.
Now fry your cutlets. Shimbo argues for a double-dipped chop: each one run through its coating twice before entering a hot-oil bath. The result was heroic in size and the perfect golden foil for the top of the dish.
Compose each plate: rice, curry (and lots of it), pork cutlet cut on the bias, a drizzle of, if you like, the pungent ketchup known as tonkatsu sauce and a child’s handful of cabbage on the side. This is British Indian food as imagined by excited Japanese and cooked in the United States a hundred years later, a small triumph of postcolonial cuisine, a culture mashup of the most delicious sort. Go, go!
Spicy Lentil Walnut Burgers - Martha Stewart
Spicy Lentil-Walnut Burgers - this is a keeper, especially if cooking for vegetarians. Nice use for all frozen bread end pieces I have from making the Zuni chicken.
3/4 cup toasted walnuts
1/3 cup plain dried breadcrumbs
3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon minced jalapeno pepper
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
3/4 cup lentils, cooked, drained, and cooled
1/4 cup grated onion
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large egg
4 large pitas
Yogurt-Cilantro Sauce, for serving
Sliced avocado, for serving
Cherry tomatoes, halved, for serving
Directions
1.In the bowl of a food processor, combine walnuts, breadcrumbs, garlic, jalapeno, cumin, coriander, red pepper flakes, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; process until finely ground. Add lentils, onion, and 1 tablespoon oil; pulse until coarsely chopped (some lentils should remain whole).
2.In a large bowl, whisk egg. Add lentil mixture; mix until well combined. Divide into quarters; roll into balls, and flatten with the palm of your hands into 3/4-inch-thick patties.
3.Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a large nonstick skillet. Add burgers; cook, turning once, over medium-low heat until crisp and browned, 8 to 10 minutes per side. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Serve burgers in pitas with sauce, avocado, and cherry tomatoes.
Read more at Marthastewart.com: Spicy Lentil-Walnut Burgers - Martha Stewart Recipes
3/4 cup toasted walnuts
1/3 cup plain dried breadcrumbs
3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon minced jalapeno pepper
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
3/4 cup lentils, cooked, drained, and cooled
1/4 cup grated onion
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large egg
4 large pitas
Yogurt-Cilantro Sauce, for serving
Sliced avocado, for serving
Cherry tomatoes, halved, for serving
Directions
1.In the bowl of a food processor, combine walnuts, breadcrumbs, garlic, jalapeno, cumin, coriander, red pepper flakes, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; process until finely ground. Add lentils, onion, and 1 tablespoon oil; pulse until coarsely chopped (some lentils should remain whole).
2.In a large bowl, whisk egg. Add lentil mixture; mix until well combined. Divide into quarters; roll into balls, and flatten with the palm of your hands into 3/4-inch-thick patties.
3.Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a large nonstick skillet. Add burgers; cook, turning once, over medium-low heat until crisp and browned, 8 to 10 minutes per side. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Serve burgers in pitas with sauce, avocado, and cherry tomatoes.
Read more at Marthastewart.com: Spicy Lentil-Walnut Burgers - Martha Stewart Recipes
Lentil Burgers - Food & Wine
Cumin-Spiced Red Lentil Burgers
The Good News The red lentils in these spicy, Indian-inspired vegetarian burgers don't need to be soaked and cook super-quickly. What's more, they are rich in B vitamins, fiber and folate, which help fight heart disease and birth defects.
Ingredients
1 1/2 cups red lentils (see Note)
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
3 medium carrots, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3/4 cup plain, dry bread crumbs
1/4 cup coarsely chopped parsley leaves
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Directions
1.In a large saucepan, cover the lentils with cold water by 2 inches and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to moderate and simmer the lentils until they are very tender, about 10 minutes. Drain the lentils well.
2.Preheat the broiler. In a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the onion and cook over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until golden, about 6 minutes. Add the carrots and two-thirds of the garlic and cook until the carrots begin to soften, about 4 minutes. Stir in the cumin and cayenne and remove from the heat. Mix in the bread crumbs, 3 tablespoons of the parsley, the eggs, salt and pepper. Form the mixture into sixteen 1/4-cup burgers.
3.Line a baking sheet with foil. Brush the foil and both sides of the burgers with the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil. Broil until golden, about 3 minutes per side.
4.Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the yogurt with the lemon juice and the remaining garlic and 1 tablespoon of parsley. Serve the burgers hot, with the yogurt sauce on the side.
Make Ahead
The lentil burgers can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated overnight.
Notes
Red lentils are available at health-food stores and Middle Eastern markets.
One Serving 621 cal, 27 gm total fat, 4.3 gm saturated fat, 71 gm carb, 11 gm fiber.
.
Tofu, Eggplant and Shiitake Noodle Soup
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Food & Wine - Recipes [?]
The Good News The red lentils in these spicy, Indian-inspired vegetarian burgers don't need to be soaked and cook super-quickly. What's more, they are rich in B vitamins, fiber and folate, which help fight heart disease and birth defects.
Ingredients
1 1/2 cups red lentils (see Note)
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
3 medium carrots, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3/4 cup plain, dry bread crumbs
1/4 cup coarsely chopped parsley leaves
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Directions
1.In a large saucepan, cover the lentils with cold water by 2 inches and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to moderate and simmer the lentils until they are very tender, about 10 minutes. Drain the lentils well.
2.Preheat the broiler. In a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the onion and cook over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until golden, about 6 minutes. Add the carrots and two-thirds of the garlic and cook until the carrots begin to soften, about 4 minutes. Stir in the cumin and cayenne and remove from the heat. Mix in the bread crumbs, 3 tablespoons of the parsley, the eggs, salt and pepper. Form the mixture into sixteen 1/4-cup burgers.
3.Line a baking sheet with foil. Brush the foil and both sides of the burgers with the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil. Broil until golden, about 3 minutes per side.
4.Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the yogurt with the lemon juice and the remaining garlic and 1 tablespoon of parsley. Serve the burgers hot, with the yogurt sauce on the side.
Make Ahead
The lentil burgers can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated overnight.
Notes
Red lentils are available at health-food stores and Middle Eastern markets.
One Serving 621 cal, 27 gm total fat, 4.3 gm saturated fat, 71 gm carb, 11 gm fiber.
.
Tofu, Eggplant and Shiitake Noodle Soup
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Research: What to do with the sweet rice in my cubbard
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zongzi
Zongzi (or zong) (Chinese: 粽子) is a traditional Chinese food, made of glutinous rice stuffed with different fillings and wrapped in bamboo or reed leaves. They are cooked by steaming or boiling. They are known in Japanese as chimaki. Laotians, Thais, and Cambodians (known as Nom Asom) also have similar traditional dishes. In the Western world, they are also known as rice dumplings or Chinese tamales[citation needed]. In Indonesia, it's known as bakcang or bacang (肉粽). A word 'bakcang' itself is derived from Hokkien, a Chinese dialect that is common to be used among Indonesian-Chinese beside Mandarin. Among the Filipino-Chinese people in the Philippines, zongzi is more popularly known as machang (Chinese: 肉粽; Pe̍h-ōe-jī: bah-tsàng) in the Lan-nang dialect.
Lo mai gai
Lo mai gai, pronounced in Cantonese speaking regions or Nuo mi ji pronounced in Mandarin speaking regions, is a classic dim sum dish served during yum cha hours.[1] The dish is also called steamed chicken in lotus leaf wrap or steamed glutinous rice in lotus leaf wrap.[1]
Contents [hide]
1 Description
2 Variant
3 Gallery
4 See also
5 References
[edit] Description
Lo mai gai is mostly a southern Chinese food. It contains glutinous rice filled with chicken, Chinese mushrooms, Chinese sausage, scallions and sometimes dried shrimp.[1] The ball of rice is then wrapped in a dried lotus leaf and steamed.[1] In North America, banana, lily, or grape leaves may be used instead.
In Malaysia and Singapore, there are two variants of lo mai gai. The first is the original Cantonese version and the other a takeaway style served at coffee shops and speciality local dim sum shops. The takeaway style has glutinous rice served with chicken and are usually made by companies such as Kong Guan.
[edit] Variant
Sometimes lo mai gai is divided into smaller wraps, which are known as chun zhu gai (珍珠雞) literally meaning "pearly chicken" in Chinese.
Due to the flexibility of the lotus leaf, Lo mai gai is typically wrapped to form a rectangular parcel. Zongzi is wrapped using bamboo leaves into a triangular based pyramid (tetrahedron).
[edit] Gallery
Zongzi (or zong) (Chinese: 粽子) is a traditional Chinese food, made of glutinous rice stuffed with different fillings and wrapped in bamboo or reed leaves. They are cooked by steaming or boiling. They are known in Japanese as chimaki. Laotians, Thais, and Cambodians (known as Nom Asom) also have similar traditional dishes. In the Western world, they are also known as rice dumplings or Chinese tamales[citation needed]. In Indonesia, it's known as bakcang or bacang (肉粽). A word 'bakcang' itself is derived from Hokkien, a Chinese dialect that is common to be used among Indonesian-Chinese beside Mandarin. Among the Filipino-Chinese people in the Philippines, zongzi is more popularly known as machang (Chinese: 肉粽; Pe̍h-ōe-jī: bah-tsàng) in the Lan-nang dialect.
Lo mai gai
Lo mai gai, pronounced in Cantonese speaking regions or Nuo mi ji pronounced in Mandarin speaking regions, is a classic dim sum dish served during yum cha hours.[1] The dish is also called steamed chicken in lotus leaf wrap or steamed glutinous rice in lotus leaf wrap.[1]
Contents [hide]
1 Description
2 Variant
3 Gallery
4 See also
5 References
[edit] Description
Lo mai gai is mostly a southern Chinese food. It contains glutinous rice filled with chicken, Chinese mushrooms, Chinese sausage, scallions and sometimes dried shrimp.[1] The ball of rice is then wrapped in a dried lotus leaf and steamed.[1] In North America, banana, lily, or grape leaves may be used instead.
In Malaysia and Singapore, there are two variants of lo mai gai. The first is the original Cantonese version and the other a takeaway style served at coffee shops and speciality local dim sum shops. The takeaway style has glutinous rice served with chicken and are usually made by companies such as Kong Guan.
[edit] Variant
Sometimes lo mai gai is divided into smaller wraps, which are known as chun zhu gai (珍珠雞) literally meaning "pearly chicken" in Chinese.
Due to the flexibility of the lotus leaf, Lo mai gai is typically wrapped to form a rectangular parcel. Zongzi is wrapped using bamboo leaves into a triangular based pyramid (tetrahedron).
[edit] Gallery
Steamed Glutinuos Rice a.k.a Loh Mai Kai Recipe
How to make Steamed Glutinuos Rice a.k.a Loh Mai Kai
All you need to do is to chuck everything in rice cooker (I prefer using dish pot) & and cook the same way we cook our normal plain rice. Just need to reduce the water by 1/4.
As simple as ABC ya?! Worth trying & it is as nice as those sell outside..sticky & smells great!
Ingredients
•glutinous rice
•chicken thigh or wing
•mushroom
•soy sauce
•dark soy sauce
•salt
•sesame oil
•white pepper
•chinese sausage (optional)
How to make Steamed Glutinuos Rice a.k.a Loh Mai Kai
All you need to do is to chuck everything in rice cooker (I prefer using dish pot) & and cook the same way we cook our normal plain rice. Just need to reduce the water by 1/4.
As simple as ABC ya?! Worth trying & it is as nice as those sell outside..sticky & smells great!
Ingredients
•glutinous rice
•chicken thigh or wing
•mushroom
•soy sauce
•dark soy sauce
•salt
•sesame oil
•white pepper
•chinese sausage (optional)
Sticky Rice Recipe Chinese style
My early memories of celebrating Thanksgiving at our house include my uncle Sem bringing roast duck*, char siu** and shrimp, prepared at his Fortune Cooky Chinese restaurant. The grown-ups' opinion of American style roast turkey was not so high. Why would you want to eat such a big bird with that dry, tasteless white meat? My mom made sticky rice as a side dish, sort of like a rice stuffing, to go with the duck. Sticky rice is a main ingredient in "Eight Treasure Sticky Rice", a sweet dish traditionally eaten at Chinese New Year banquets. Eventually my collective family learned how to make a proper traditional turkey, Stove Top stuffing, etc., for Thanksgiving, but this sticky rice dish remains a most delicious accompaniment to the turkey.
*Chinese style roast duck, the kind you see hanging in the shop windows by their necks in Chinatowns
**Chinese style barbequed roast pork
Ingredients for Sticky Rice
ingredients are available at Asian markets
•3 cups sticky rice (also called sweet rice or glutinous rice)
•6 medium dried shitake mushrooms
•4 Chinese sausages, diced (also called lop chung)
•1/4 cup dried shrimp
•1/2 cup cooked diced chicken, pork or char-siu (Chinese barbeque pork), optional
•3 whole scallions, chopped
•3-6 sprigs cilantro (also called Chinese parsley), to taste
•2 tablespoons light soy sauce
•2 teaspoons oyster sauce
•1 teaspoon sesame oil
Cooking Instructions
•Soak the dried mushrooms in 1 cup warm water until soft, about 30 mins.
•Soak the dried shrimp in 1/2 cup warm water until soft, about 30 mins.
•Soak the rice in plenty of warm water for 2 hours in a rice cooker bowl.
•Dice the sausages and chicken (or pork)
•Chop up the scallions and cilantro
•Squeeze the excess water from the mushrooms and save it in the soaking bowl. Cut off any tough stems. Dice the mushrooms.
•Remove the shrimp from the soaking bowl and reserve the soaking water. Chop the shrimp finely.
•In a skillet, stir fry the sausages until the fatty parts turn from white to clear. Add the diced chicken or pork, then the mushrooms, then the dried shrimp until all ingredients are mixed well and heated through.
•In the rice cooker, drain the soaking water from the rice. Combine the soaking liquid from the mushrooms and the shrimp with water to make 2 cups total. Add this water to the rice, then steam the rice until soft.
•Combine the soy sauce, oyster sauce and sesame oil. Add this mixture to the steamed rice and stir until combined.
•Add the stir fried ingredients to the rice and mix well. Stir in the scallions and cilantro.
•Serve in a big serving bowl. Keep covered to prevent rice from drying out. Leftovers freeze well; just reheat in microwave.
This rice is also delicious when rolled up like sushi with a sheet of sushi nori (dried seaweed). Yum!
*Chinese style roast duck, the kind you see hanging in the shop windows by their necks in Chinatowns
**Chinese style barbequed roast pork
Ingredients for Sticky Rice
ingredients are available at Asian markets
•3 cups sticky rice (also called sweet rice or glutinous rice)
•6 medium dried shitake mushrooms
•4 Chinese sausages, diced (also called lop chung)
•1/4 cup dried shrimp
•1/2 cup cooked diced chicken, pork or char-siu (Chinese barbeque pork), optional
•3 whole scallions, chopped
•3-6 sprigs cilantro (also called Chinese parsley), to taste
•2 tablespoons light soy sauce
•2 teaspoons oyster sauce
•1 teaspoon sesame oil
Cooking Instructions
•Soak the dried mushrooms in 1 cup warm water until soft, about 30 mins.
•Soak the dried shrimp in 1/2 cup warm water until soft, about 30 mins.
•Soak the rice in plenty of warm water for 2 hours in a rice cooker bowl.
•Dice the sausages and chicken (or pork)
•Chop up the scallions and cilantro
•Squeeze the excess water from the mushrooms and save it in the soaking bowl. Cut off any tough stems. Dice the mushrooms.
•Remove the shrimp from the soaking bowl and reserve the soaking water. Chop the shrimp finely.
•In a skillet, stir fry the sausages until the fatty parts turn from white to clear. Add the diced chicken or pork, then the mushrooms, then the dried shrimp until all ingredients are mixed well and heated through.
•In the rice cooker, drain the soaking water from the rice. Combine the soaking liquid from the mushrooms and the shrimp with water to make 2 cups total. Add this water to the rice, then steam the rice until soft.
•Combine the soy sauce, oyster sauce and sesame oil. Add this mixture to the steamed rice and stir until combined.
•Add the stir fried ingredients to the rice and mix well. Stir in the scallions and cilantro.
•Serve in a big serving bowl. Keep covered to prevent rice from drying out. Leftovers freeze well; just reheat in microwave.
This rice is also delicious when rolled up like sushi with a sheet of sushi nori (dried seaweed). Yum!
Chinese Stick Rice -- Desert
Chinese Sticky Rice Cake
Ingredients
1 (16 ounce) box sweet rice flour (mochiko)
1 cup canola oil
2 1/2 cups milk
1 1/2 cups white sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
3 eggs, beaten
1/2 (18.75 ounce) can sweetened red bean paste
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
Directions
1.Preheat an oven to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C). Lightly grease a 9x13 inch baking pan.
2.Mix rice flour, canola oil, milk, sugar, and baking powder in a large bowl. Stir in the beaten eggs. Pour the mixture into the baking pan. Drop small spoonfuls of the red bean paste into the flour mixture about 1 to 2 inches apart, making sure that the red bean paste is covered by the flour mixture. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds.
3.Bake in the preheated oven until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 55 minutes. Cool in the pans for 10 minutes before removing to cool completely on a wire rack.
"A sweet dessert made with glutinous rice flour (also called sweet rice flour) and red bean paste. This recipe was given to me by my Chinese sister-in-law. It is a favorite of my family. It has a firm custard-like texture which is different to many western palates. "
Ingredients
1 (16 ounce) box sweet rice flour (mochiko)
1 cup canola oil
2 1/2 cups milk
1 1/2 cups white sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
3 eggs, beaten
1/2 (18.75 ounce) can sweetened red bean paste
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
Directions
1.Preheat an oven to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C). Lightly grease a 9x13 inch baking pan.
2.Mix rice flour, canola oil, milk, sugar, and baking powder in a large bowl. Stir in the beaten eggs. Pour the mixture into the baking pan. Drop small spoonfuls of the red bean paste into the flour mixture about 1 to 2 inches apart, making sure that the red bean paste is covered by the flour mixture. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds.
3.Bake in the preheated oven until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 55 minutes. Cool in the pans for 10 minutes before removing to cool completely on a wire rack.
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Sticky rice
Chinese Sticky Rice (Nuomi Fan)
I love Chinese sticky rice. It contains several of my favorite ingredients — sticky rice, Chinese sausage and mushrooms. I know I'm going to have Hungry Bear's sticky rice at least twice a year, at Thanksgiving dinner and during Lunar New Year (Vietnamese/Chinese New Year) festivities. It's become a traditional dish for us on these holidays.
I really enjoy the rich flavors from the Chinese sausage, shiitake mushrooms, oyster sauce and soy sauce that get infused into the sweet, sticky rice. Chinese-American families often serve sticky rice in place of stuffing during Thanksgiving. It's great with turkey, roasted duck or just by itself. I didn't grow up eating this dish, but I now consider it a comfort food.
Hungry Bear started making Chinese sticky rice using a recipe from Grace Young's The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen. The recipe has dried scallops and shrimp in it, which takes additional time to prepare. Over the years, Hungry Bear has altered Grace Young's recipe, excluding the dried seafood, in order to save prep time. The scallops and shrimp are a little too fishy for my tastes and I prefer my sticky rice without them.
Another common ingredient in sticky rice is chestnuts, which Hungry Bear's mom often includes in her recipe. A frequent reader, Judy, told us that her aunty used bamboo shoots in her sticky rice. Next time, Hungry Bear plans on adding either chestnuts or bamboo shoots for some variety.
Until then, I've included two Chinese sticky rice recipes. The first one is Hungry Bear's and the second recipe with dried seafood is Grace Young's, in case you want all the flavors of traditional sticky rice. I need to warn you that Hungry Bear's version makes a huge amount of rice. She likes to cook in mass quantities and all recipes are bear-size, which means they are quadrupled! Hungry Bear loves leftovers, therefore the need to cook in abundance.
I'll never complain about the large quantities because there's no such thing as too much Chinese sticky rice!
Chinese Sticky Rice Recipe
Ingredients:
4 cups sweet rice
2 cups jasmine rice
25 Chinese dried shiitake mushrooms
6 Chinese sausages (lop chong)
1 pound lean Chinese barbecued pork, store-bought
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
5 cups low sodium chicken stock
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 cup chopped scallions
1 cup chopped cilantro
Directions:
1) In a bowl, soak the mushrooms in warm water for about 30 minutes, until softened. In a 6-quart stockpot, wash all the rice in several changes of cold water until the water runs clear. Soak the combined sweet and jasmine rice for 1 hour in enough cold water to cover.
2) When softened, drain and squeeze dry the mushrooms, reserving the liquid. Cut off and discard stems and chop the caps.
3) Chop sausage and barbecued pork and set aside separately.
4) Heat large wok or skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add oil and Chinese sausage, and stir-fry 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and barbecued pork, and stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes, until heated through. Add 1 tablespoon soy sauce, stir to combine, remove from heat, and set aside.
5) Drain rice. Add chicken broth and enough the reserved mushrooms liquid to measure 1 cup, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook 10 minutes. Uncover and quickly scoop Chinese sausage mixture onto top of rice. Immediately cover and continue cooking the rice 25 to 30 minutes, or until broth is completely absorbed and rice is tender. Let stand 5 minutes. Add 1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce, oyster sauce, scallions, cilantro and stir to combine. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve and enjoy.
Makes about 4 quarts. Serves 18 to 20 as part of a multicourse meal.
[Recipe adapted from The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen by Grace Young]
- - -
Flavored Sweet Rice (Naw Mai Fan) Recipe
Ingredients:
1/4 cup Chinese dried scallops (gawn yu chee)
1 cup sweet rice
1/2 cup long grain rice
2 tablespoons Chinese dried shrimp
4 Chinese dried mushrooms
1 Chinese sausage (lop chong)
4 ounces Chinese barbecued pork, store-bought or homemade
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons thin soy sauce
1 1/4 cups homemade chicken broth
2 teaspoons black soy sauce
2 teaspoons oyster flavored sauce
1/3 cup chopped scallions
1/3 cup chopped cilantro
Directions:
1) In a small bowl, soak the dried scallops in about 1/3 cup cold water for 2 hours, or until softened. In a medium-sized bowl, wash all the rice in several changes of cold water until the water runs clear. Soak the combined sweet and long rice for 1 hour in enough cold water to cover. Place the shrimp and mushrooms in separate bowls. Pour about 1/4 cup cold water over each ingredient, and soak for about 30 minutes, to soften.
2) When softened, drain all the ingredients except the rice, discarding the shrimp water and reserving the scallop and mushroom liquids. Remove the small hard knob from the side of the scallops and discard. Finely shred the scallops with your hands. Chop shrimp if larger than 1/4 inch. Drain and squeeze dry the mushrooms. Cut off and discard stems and finely chop the caps.
3) Finely chop sausage and barbecued pork and set aside separately.
4) Meanwhile, heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add oil and Chinese sausage, and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add scallops and stir-fry another 30 seconds. Add the shrimp, mushrooms, and barbecued pork, and stir-fry 1 minute. Add thin soy sauce, stir to combine, remove from heat, and set aside.
5) Drain rice and place in a 2-quart saucepan. Add chicken broth and enough of the reserved scallop and mushrooms liquids to measure 1/4 cup, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook 10 minutes. Uncover and quickly scoop Chinese sausage mixture onto top of rice. Immediately cover and continue cooking the rice 25 to 30 minutes, or until broth is completely absorbed and rice is tender. Let stand 5 minutes. Add the black soy sauce, oyster sauce, scallions, and cilantro, and stir to combine. Serve immediately.
Makes about 6 cups. Serves 6 to 8 as part of a multicourse meal.
[Recipe via The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen by Grace Young]
I love Chinese sticky rice. It contains several of my favorite ingredients — sticky rice, Chinese sausage and mushrooms. I know I'm going to have Hungry Bear's sticky rice at least twice a year, at Thanksgiving dinner and during Lunar New Year (Vietnamese/Chinese New Year) festivities. It's become a traditional dish for us on these holidays.
I really enjoy the rich flavors from the Chinese sausage, shiitake mushrooms, oyster sauce and soy sauce that get infused into the sweet, sticky rice. Chinese-American families often serve sticky rice in place of stuffing during Thanksgiving. It's great with turkey, roasted duck or just by itself. I didn't grow up eating this dish, but I now consider it a comfort food.
Hungry Bear started making Chinese sticky rice using a recipe from Grace Young's The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen. The recipe has dried scallops and shrimp in it, which takes additional time to prepare. Over the years, Hungry Bear has altered Grace Young's recipe, excluding the dried seafood, in order to save prep time. The scallops and shrimp are a little too fishy for my tastes and I prefer my sticky rice without them.
Another common ingredient in sticky rice is chestnuts, which Hungry Bear's mom often includes in her recipe. A frequent reader, Judy, told us that her aunty used bamboo shoots in her sticky rice. Next time, Hungry Bear plans on adding either chestnuts or bamboo shoots for some variety.
Until then, I've included two Chinese sticky rice recipes. The first one is Hungry Bear's and the second recipe with dried seafood is Grace Young's, in case you want all the flavors of traditional sticky rice. I need to warn you that Hungry Bear's version makes a huge amount of rice. She likes to cook in mass quantities and all recipes are bear-size, which means they are quadrupled! Hungry Bear loves leftovers, therefore the need to cook in abundance.
I'll never complain about the large quantities because there's no such thing as too much Chinese sticky rice!
Chinese Sticky Rice Recipe
Ingredients:
4 cups sweet rice
2 cups jasmine rice
25 Chinese dried shiitake mushrooms
6 Chinese sausages (lop chong)
1 pound lean Chinese barbecued pork, store-bought
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
5 cups low sodium chicken stock
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 cup chopped scallions
1 cup chopped cilantro
Directions:
1) In a bowl, soak the mushrooms in warm water for about 30 minutes, until softened. In a 6-quart stockpot, wash all the rice in several changes of cold water until the water runs clear. Soak the combined sweet and jasmine rice for 1 hour in enough cold water to cover.
2) When softened, drain and squeeze dry the mushrooms, reserving the liquid. Cut off and discard stems and chop the caps.
3) Chop sausage and barbecued pork and set aside separately.
4) Heat large wok or skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add oil and Chinese sausage, and stir-fry 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and barbecued pork, and stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes, until heated through. Add 1 tablespoon soy sauce, stir to combine, remove from heat, and set aside.
5) Drain rice. Add chicken broth and enough the reserved mushrooms liquid to measure 1 cup, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook 10 minutes. Uncover and quickly scoop Chinese sausage mixture onto top of rice. Immediately cover and continue cooking the rice 25 to 30 minutes, or until broth is completely absorbed and rice is tender. Let stand 5 minutes. Add 1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce, oyster sauce, scallions, cilantro and stir to combine. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve and enjoy.
Makes about 4 quarts. Serves 18 to 20 as part of a multicourse meal.
[Recipe adapted from The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen by Grace Young]
- - -
Flavored Sweet Rice (Naw Mai Fan) Recipe
Ingredients:
1/4 cup Chinese dried scallops (gawn yu chee)
1 cup sweet rice
1/2 cup long grain rice
2 tablespoons Chinese dried shrimp
4 Chinese dried mushrooms
1 Chinese sausage (lop chong)
4 ounces Chinese barbecued pork, store-bought or homemade
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons thin soy sauce
1 1/4 cups homemade chicken broth
2 teaspoons black soy sauce
2 teaspoons oyster flavored sauce
1/3 cup chopped scallions
1/3 cup chopped cilantro
Directions:
1) In a small bowl, soak the dried scallops in about 1/3 cup cold water for 2 hours, or until softened. In a medium-sized bowl, wash all the rice in several changes of cold water until the water runs clear. Soak the combined sweet and long rice for 1 hour in enough cold water to cover. Place the shrimp and mushrooms in separate bowls. Pour about 1/4 cup cold water over each ingredient, and soak for about 30 minutes, to soften.
2) When softened, drain all the ingredients except the rice, discarding the shrimp water and reserving the scallop and mushroom liquids. Remove the small hard knob from the side of the scallops and discard. Finely shred the scallops with your hands. Chop shrimp if larger than 1/4 inch. Drain and squeeze dry the mushrooms. Cut off and discard stems and finely chop the caps.
3) Finely chop sausage and barbecued pork and set aside separately.
4) Meanwhile, heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add oil and Chinese sausage, and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add scallops and stir-fry another 30 seconds. Add the shrimp, mushrooms, and barbecued pork, and stir-fry 1 minute. Add thin soy sauce, stir to combine, remove from heat, and set aside.
5) Drain rice and place in a 2-quart saucepan. Add chicken broth and enough of the reserved scallop and mushrooms liquids to measure 1/4 cup, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook 10 minutes. Uncover and quickly scoop Chinese sausage mixture onto top of rice. Immediately cover and continue cooking the rice 25 to 30 minutes, or until broth is completely absorbed and rice is tender. Let stand 5 minutes. Add the black soy sauce, oyster sauce, scallions, and cilantro, and stir to combine. Serve immediately.
Makes about 6 cups. Serves 6 to 8 as part of a multicourse meal.
[Recipe via The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen by Grace Young]
Sticky rice
Sticky Rice with Chinese Sausage
Gourmet
November 2004
yield: Makes 8 to 10 side-dish servings
active time: 25 min
total time: 3 hr (includes soaking)
This dish is a wonderful alternative to more traditional dressing. It's normal for a crust to develop on the bottom of the pot — after scooping... more ›
3 cups Chinese or Japanese short-grain sticky ("sweet") rice*
1 cup Chinese dried black mushrooms* or dried shiitake mushrooms (1 1/2 oz)
5 Chinese sausages* (6 to 8 oz total)
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallion (white and pale green parts only; from 1 bunch)
1 1/2 cups bottled peeled cooked whole chestnuts (from a 14- to 15-oz jar), drained and coarsely chopped
1/3 cup Chinese rice wine or medium-dry Sherry
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
Special equipment: a wok
Garnish: thinly sliced scallion greens
Cover rice with cold water by 1 inch in a large bowl and soak at least 2 hours. Drain in a sieve and rinse well under cold running water.
Soak mushrooms in warm water 30 minutes, then drain, squeezing excess liquid back into bowl, and discard liquid. Rinse mushrooms to remove any grit, then discard stems and coarsely chop caps. 3Quarter sausages lengthwise and cut into 1/2-inch pieces.
Heat a wok over high heat until just smoking. Add peanut oil and heat, swirling in wok, until just smoking. Add ginger and scallion and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add sausage and stir-fry 1 minute, then add mushrooms and stir-fry 1 minute. Add chestnuts and stir-fry 1 minute. Stir in rice wine, soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil, salt, and white pepper and remove from heat. Add drained rice and stir to coat.
Transfer mixture to a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot and add broth (broth will not completely cover rice). Bring to a simmer, stir once, then reduce heat to low. Cover and cook 25 minutes more, then remove from heat. Stir from bottom to distribute ingredients and let stand, covered, 10 minutes before serving.
*Available at Asian markets and Kam Man Food Products (212-571-0330).
Gourmet
November 2004
yield: Makes 8 to 10 side-dish servings
active time: 25 min
total time: 3 hr (includes soaking)
This dish is a wonderful alternative to more traditional dressing. It's normal for a crust to develop on the bottom of the pot — after scooping... more ›
3 cups Chinese or Japanese short-grain sticky ("sweet") rice*
1 cup Chinese dried black mushrooms* or dried shiitake mushrooms (1 1/2 oz)
5 Chinese sausages* (6 to 8 oz total)
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallion (white and pale green parts only; from 1 bunch)
1 1/2 cups bottled peeled cooked whole chestnuts (from a 14- to 15-oz jar), drained and coarsely chopped
1/3 cup Chinese rice wine or medium-dry Sherry
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
Special equipment: a wok
Garnish: thinly sliced scallion greens
Cover rice with cold water by 1 inch in a large bowl and soak at least 2 hours. Drain in a sieve and rinse well under cold running water.
Soak mushrooms in warm water 30 minutes, then drain, squeezing excess liquid back into bowl, and discard liquid. Rinse mushrooms to remove any grit, then discard stems and coarsely chop caps. 3Quarter sausages lengthwise and cut into 1/2-inch pieces.
Heat a wok over high heat until just smoking. Add peanut oil and heat, swirling in wok, until just smoking. Add ginger and scallion and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add sausage and stir-fry 1 minute, then add mushrooms and stir-fry 1 minute. Add chestnuts and stir-fry 1 minute. Stir in rice wine, soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil, salt, and white pepper and remove from heat. Add drained rice and stir to coat.
Transfer mixture to a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot and add broth (broth will not completely cover rice). Bring to a simmer, stir once, then reduce heat to low. Cover and cook 25 minutes more, then remove from heat. Stir from bottom to distribute ingredients and let stand, covered, 10 minutes before serving.
*Available at Asian markets and Kam Man Food Products (212-571-0330).
Friday, December 17, 2010
Figuring out which pears I like
These were smoother, less crunchy, less grainy. More that delicate pear taste.
Crunchy, tangy, almost grainy. Potentially a little off. Inside had a funny brown thing, the same formation that edible but off avocados have.
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Research: Limoncello (what to do with impeding load of Meyer Lemons)
I make limoncello all the time. Here’s a better recipe:
750 cc 100 proof vodka (it will be too thin if you use the more common 80 proof and too bitter if you use Everclear). This is key.
Peels of 12 washed lemons; no need to finely chop
Steep the lemon peels in the vodka in the dark for 3-4 days, swirling a few times a day.
Make a simple syrup of 3 cups sugar to 2 cups water: boil until dissolved. It will be thick, which is what you want. You’ll have about 3-1/2 cups of syrup. Cool before using.
Decant the vodka when ready; it should be a lovely yellow color. Add sugar syrup until it’s just right, tasting as you go. (Yum) I always have some syrup left over, which keeps indefinitely, so eventually you’ll have enough syrup so as not to have to make any fresh for your next batch.
Freeze in small bottles so you can give some as gifts and keep some for yourself.
Repeat as needed.
Juice the lemons and freeze the juice in ice cube trays. Make lemonade. You can use the leftover syrup for this if you want.
This recipe should work for Lime-cello but I don’t know how many limes you’d need. Experiment! If you need more, you can always add more and steep again.
750 cc 100 proof vodka (it will be too thin if you use the more common 80 proof and too bitter if you use Everclear). This is key.
Peels of 12 washed lemons; no need to finely chop
Steep the lemon peels in the vodka in the dark for 3-4 days, swirling a few times a day.
Make a simple syrup of 3 cups sugar to 2 cups water: boil until dissolved. It will be thick, which is what you want. You’ll have about 3-1/2 cups of syrup. Cool before using.
Decant the vodka when ready; it should be a lovely yellow color. Add sugar syrup until it’s just right, tasting as you go. (Yum) I always have some syrup left over, which keeps indefinitely, so eventually you’ll have enough syrup so as not to have to make any fresh for your next batch.
Freeze in small bottles so you can give some as gifts and keep some for yourself.
Repeat as needed.
Juice the lemons and freeze the juice in ice cube trays. Make lemonade. You can use the leftover syrup for this if you want.
This recipe should work for Lime-cello but I don’t know how many limes you’d need. Experiment! If you need more, you can always add more and steep again.
Limoncello
In the Drink
D.I.Y. Libations
Food
June 9, 2009, 11:53 am
Image courtesy of Chelsea Green Publishing Company
“Libation,” by Deirdre Heekin.I spent last weekend taking care of my 5-month-old niece. While exhausting, it was incredible to watch a baby discover things. She was giddy as she ate her third-ever serving of solid food. I wasn’t sure if it was because her Aunt Jill’s fresh pea puree was so good or because she learned that her tongue could do more than get drops from a bottle. For me, it was elating: It made me realize that so rarely do I have a first these days.
That’s why I took such pleasure reading Deirdre Heekin’s new book, “Libation: A Bitter Alchemy” (Chelsea Green), a glimpse into her education in wine, followed by cocktails, perfumes, infusions, liquors and liqueurs, as well as her trials making wine and growing grapes at home. It was as alluring as watching my niece learn to flip onto her belly.
I met Heekin and her husband, Caleb Barber, about six years ago in Vermont, where they run a small trattoria in Woodstock called Osteria Pane e Salute (Italian for “bread and health”). I had heard that they loved Italy and Italian food as fervently as I do: Their first book, re-released this year as “In Late Winter We Ate Pears,” was about moving to Tuscany the day after their wedding to start life as a married couple, and the effect that trip would have on the rest of their lives.
“Libation” is part historical account, part narrative. (Heekin is not afraid to admit that her introduction to alcohol was drinking vodka in college, after a bad experience with Ernest and Julio Gallo’s Hearty Burgundy postponed her curiosity in wine for years.) I was so intrigued by her chapter on the history of absinthe and her theories on why the green fairy was banned for so many years. The stories of vodka, Campari, Peychauds and alkermes are fascinating as well. (Heekin will be reading from the book at several events this week, including one at Astor Center on Thursday.)
Inspired by both my niece’s and Heekin’s discoveries, I was ready to make a few of my own. In the third chapter of Heekin’s book she writes about her first taste of rosolio, the rose-infused liqueur. Rose liqueur? I’ve tried limoncello and mandarin liqueurs, but never rose-petal. So I went to the farmer’s market, bought a dozen dark roses from a vendor who claims he doesn’t spray with chemicals and returned home with the highest-proof vodka I could find — in New York that’s 160 proof; you have to go to Jersey for 190-proof — Devil’s Springs, to make rosolio. It was easier than I imagined. I plucked the petals, weighed them and tossed them into a large Ball jar with the vodka. Within minutes, the clear alcohol soaked up the petals’ red dye. Wow, how cool. Then I tossed the grated rinds of 12 lemons into another jar with a bottle of 160-proof vodka and watched the liquid turn bright yellow in minutes. This would become limoncello. I tucked the jars in a corner near my couch to rest in the darkness for two weeks. Tomorrow I’ll add simple syrup (sugar and water), then wait two more weeks. Perhaps I’ve caught a bug. Next up, homemade bitters.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rosolio
6 to 8 red roses, unsprayed with chemicals and ultimately picked at the hottest point of the day
1 (1.75 liter) bottle 190-proof vodka (160-proof vodka, such as Devil’s Spring, may be substituted)
1 vanilla bean
1 pound sugar.
1. Separate the petals from the flowers. Trim the white edge at the base with a knife or scissors. Weigh out 1 3/4 ounces petals. Combine the petals, vodka and vanilla bean in a large, clean canning jar. Close the jar and set aside in a dark place for two weeks.
2. After two weeks, strain the liquid, removing the rose petals and vanilla bean.
3. Prepare simple syrup by dissolving 1 pound of sugar in 3 1/4 cups water in a saucepan over low heat. Once the sugar has dissolved, let cool. Add the simple syrup to the alcohol, return the mixture to the jar, seal and store in a dark place for another two weeks.
4. At the end of those two weeks, filter and bottle. If desired, more simple syrup can be added to cut the heat of the alcohol to suit your taste. Adapted from “Libation: A Bitter Alchemy,” by Deirdre Heekin.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Limoncello
12 lemons, washed
1 750-milliliter bottle good vodka
1/2 cup sugar.
1. Finely grate the zest of the lemons. In a large, clean jar, combine the zest and the vodka. Seal tightly and place in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks.
2. In a small saucepan over medium heat, dissolve the sugar in 1/2 cup water to make simple syrup. Let cool.
3. Strain the vodka mixture through a cheesecloth-lined sieve set over a bowl. Stir in the simple syrup. Use a funnel to pour into a 1-liter bottle and seal. Place in a cool, dark place for 1 week, then chill in the freezer until ready to serve. Recipe adapted from “Citrus Maximus” by Amanda Hesser, published in the Times Magazine on June 6, 2005.
.
D.I.Y. Libations
Food
June 9, 2009, 11:53 am
Image courtesy of Chelsea Green Publishing Company
“Libation,” by Deirdre Heekin.I spent last weekend taking care of my 5-month-old niece. While exhausting, it was incredible to watch a baby discover things. She was giddy as she ate her third-ever serving of solid food. I wasn’t sure if it was because her Aunt Jill’s fresh pea puree was so good or because she learned that her tongue could do more than get drops from a bottle. For me, it was elating: It made me realize that so rarely do I have a first these days.
That’s why I took such pleasure reading Deirdre Heekin’s new book, “Libation: A Bitter Alchemy” (Chelsea Green), a glimpse into her education in wine, followed by cocktails, perfumes, infusions, liquors and liqueurs, as well as her trials making wine and growing grapes at home. It was as alluring as watching my niece learn to flip onto her belly.
I met Heekin and her husband, Caleb Barber, about six years ago in Vermont, where they run a small trattoria in Woodstock called Osteria Pane e Salute (Italian for “bread and health”). I had heard that they loved Italy and Italian food as fervently as I do: Their first book, re-released this year as “In Late Winter We Ate Pears,” was about moving to Tuscany the day after their wedding to start life as a married couple, and the effect that trip would have on the rest of their lives.
“Libation” is part historical account, part narrative. (Heekin is not afraid to admit that her introduction to alcohol was drinking vodka in college, after a bad experience with Ernest and Julio Gallo’s Hearty Burgundy postponed her curiosity in wine for years.) I was so intrigued by her chapter on the history of absinthe and her theories on why the green fairy was banned for so many years. The stories of vodka, Campari, Peychauds and alkermes are fascinating as well. (Heekin will be reading from the book at several events this week, including one at Astor Center on Thursday.)
Inspired by both my niece’s and Heekin’s discoveries, I was ready to make a few of my own. In the third chapter of Heekin’s book she writes about her first taste of rosolio, the rose-infused liqueur. Rose liqueur? I’ve tried limoncello and mandarin liqueurs, but never rose-petal. So I went to the farmer’s market, bought a dozen dark roses from a vendor who claims he doesn’t spray with chemicals and returned home with the highest-proof vodka I could find — in New York that’s 160 proof; you have to go to Jersey for 190-proof — Devil’s Springs, to make rosolio. It was easier than I imagined. I plucked the petals, weighed them and tossed them into a large Ball jar with the vodka. Within minutes, the clear alcohol soaked up the petals’ red dye. Wow, how cool. Then I tossed the grated rinds of 12 lemons into another jar with a bottle of 160-proof vodka and watched the liquid turn bright yellow in minutes. This would become limoncello. I tucked the jars in a corner near my couch to rest in the darkness for two weeks. Tomorrow I’ll add simple syrup (sugar and water), then wait two more weeks. Perhaps I’ve caught a bug. Next up, homemade bitters.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rosolio
6 to 8 red roses, unsprayed with chemicals and ultimately picked at the hottest point of the day
1 (1.75 liter) bottle 190-proof vodka (160-proof vodka, such as Devil’s Spring, may be substituted)
1 vanilla bean
1 pound sugar.
1. Separate the petals from the flowers. Trim the white edge at the base with a knife or scissors. Weigh out 1 3/4 ounces petals. Combine the petals, vodka and vanilla bean in a large, clean canning jar. Close the jar and set aside in a dark place for two weeks.
2. After two weeks, strain the liquid, removing the rose petals and vanilla bean.
3. Prepare simple syrup by dissolving 1 pound of sugar in 3 1/4 cups water in a saucepan over low heat. Once the sugar has dissolved, let cool. Add the simple syrup to the alcohol, return the mixture to the jar, seal and store in a dark place for another two weeks.
4. At the end of those two weeks, filter and bottle. If desired, more simple syrup can be added to cut the heat of the alcohol to suit your taste. Adapted from “Libation: A Bitter Alchemy,” by Deirdre Heekin.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Limoncello
12 lemons, washed
1 750-milliliter bottle good vodka
1/2 cup sugar.
1. Finely grate the zest of the lemons. In a large, clean jar, combine the zest and the vodka. Seal tightly and place in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks.
2. In a small saucepan over medium heat, dissolve the sugar in 1/2 cup water to make simple syrup. Let cool.
3. Strain the vodka mixture through a cheesecloth-lined sieve set over a bowl. Stir in the simple syrup. Use a funnel to pour into a 1-liter bottle and seal. Place in a cool, dark place for 1 week, then chill in the freezer until ready to serve. Recipe adapted from “Citrus Maximus” by Amanda Hesser, published in the Times Magazine on June 6, 2005.
.
Citrus Maximus
When food people gather, one game that is often played is: If you were banished to a desert island and could take just three foods, what would they be?
Forum: Cooking and Recipes
The answers are always surprisingly mundane. The truffles are left behind, as is the Château d'Yquem. Packed up are bread (Balthazar), butter (French), bacon (Nueskies), coffee (La Colombe Torrefaction) and the like — the staples. But the one food that is almost never mentioned — and yet is the flavor upon which so many of the world's dishes depend — is the lemon.
We tend to forget the lemon. It is so common that, like salt in a list of ingredients, it escapes notice. And criticism. The sustainable-food police look the other way when it comes to the lemon. It is seasonless, sourceless, immune to fads, a commodity untouched by the shifting culinary winds. And unlike a staple like salt, which has many gradations and prices, the lemon is populist. Every cook, rich or poor, uses the fruit. It is also apolitical, employed by Republicans and Democrats, Sunnis and Shiites, Tamils and Sinhalese alike. It is the pillar of lemon-meringue pie, the sting in tabbouleh, the perfume in genoise, the zip in chicken tandoori, the structure in hollandaise, the clarity in a hot toddy and the fragrance in German hazelnut cookies.
Where sugar, coffee and flour addict us in various ways, the lemon has earned its place on merit alone. Lemon sharpens the flavor of soups and sauces. It prevents avocados and apples from discoloring. It neutralizes the oiliness of mayonnaise, helps fruit preserves to gel, cures fish and brightens pastry.
The lemon is also an efficient fruit, with two sources of flavor: the zest and the juice. The zest, which contains essential oils, has a floral aroma and less bite than the juice. It is the main ingredient in limoncello, a sweet, highly alcoholic digestif that has elbowed its way onto the drinks menu at New York restaurants like Gusto, Alto and Esca, where there is always a tub of zest macerating in vodka behind the bar. There's no reason not to make your own, either — it could not be easier or cheaper. All you do is infuse lemon zest in vodka for a couple of weeks, then sweeten it with sugar syrup, bottle it and put it in the freezer to await guests. After a big meal, its tingly, fragrant chill has a way of putting a little starch back in your sluggish senses.
At Babbo, the cooks have brought limoncello into the kitchen, where they whisk it into a vinaigrette spiced with dried red chili. It functions as an acid, with the vodka lending an amusing kick. The vinaigrette is used to dress grilled octopus, but it is also delicious on salad greens, as I tried at home. Grilled fish, artichokes and beets will be next.
Sometimes the zest is unwanted, as is the case with the preserved lemons Gabriel Kreuther makes at the Modern, at the Museum of Modern Art. He shaves the zest, then blanches the bald citrus before curing it with salt as well as sugar. With the lemon, nothing needs to be wasted. The leftover zest can be mixed with sugar to make a lemon sugar, much as you would make with spent vanilla-bean pods. It's an amicable arrangement: the zest perfumes the sugar, and the sugar cures the zest. You can chop the sugared zest and sprinkle it on desserts — a chocolate cake, for instance — or use the sugar to sweeten pancakes, cakes or ice cream.
Lemons are at their best when they find a balance between salty and sweet. A lemon tart is good only when there is not too much sugar in the curd and there is enough salt in the pastry. The best lemonade I have ever tasted was made with lemons that were first salted, to draw out any bitterness, before being squeezed and sweetened.
Like many cooks, I keep a file of recipes I want to try. When I looked through it recently, there were a preponderance of lemon recipes, including one for roasted chicken with lemons and Coca-Cola from Frédérick Grasser-Hermé. Again, the savory and sweet. A food writer who has worked with chefs like Alain Ducasse, Grasser-Hermé is also the wife of the Parisian pastry chef Pierre Hermé. It humored me that a French cook would deign to baste her chicken with Coke. But it makes perfect sense: like many drinks — wheat beer, iced tea, sangria, Vietnamese sugar-cane juice — Coca-Cola is always improved by a wedge of lemon.
So if you're ever banished to a desert island, you may want to reconsider your list. Lemons would make ceviche of the fish you catch, clean your hands and help prevent scurvy. And you can plant the seeds and grow your own.
Limoncello
12 lemons
1 750-milliliter bottle good vodka
½ cup sugar.
1. Finely grate the zest of the lemons. In a large jar, combine the zest and the vodka. Seal tightly and place in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks.
2. In a small saucepan over medium heat, dissolve the sugar in 1/2 cup water. Let cool.
3. Using a sieve lined with cheesecloth, set over a bowl, strain the vodka mixture. Stir the sugar syrup into it. Use a funnel to pour into a 1-liter bottle and seal. Place in a cool, dark place for 1 week, then chill in the freezer until ready to serve. Serves 1, or many.
Limoncello Vinaigrette
¼ cup limoncello (see recipe)
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 ½ teaspoons Dijon-style mustard
¼ teaspoon ground red-pepper flakes
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt to taste.
1. Whisk together the limoncello, lemon juice, lemon zest, mustard and red-pepper.
2. Whisk in the oil and season to taste with salt. Makes ¾ cup. Adapted from Babbo.
Chicken With Coca-Cola and Lemons
Juice of 3 lemons
1 4 ½ pound chicken, butterflied
3 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Zest of 2 lemons, removed with a vegetable peeler
Olive oil, for sautéeing
1 medium onion, thickly sliced
¼ cup finely julienned ginger
3 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped
1 cup Coca-Cola
½ teaspoon white vinegar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar.
1. In a large, rimmed dish, sprinkle the lemon juice over both sides of the chicken. Rub with the salt and pepper, then the lemon zest. Cover and chill for 4 hours.
2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the chicken, skin side up, in a roasting pan. Reserve the lemon juice, diluting it with 1 tablespoon water. Cover the chicken with foil and roast for 30 minutes, basting it with the lemon juice every 5 to 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, cover the bottom of a medium sauté pan with a thin film of olive oil. Place over medium heat and add the onion and ginger. Cook until the onions are soft and golden, about 8 minutes, then stir in the garlic. Season with salt and pepper.
4. After the chicken has cooked for 30 minutes, lower the heat to 300 degrees and remove the foil. Begin basting every 10 minutes with the Coca-Cola, until the chicken juices run clear, about 1 hour more. Reheat the onions, adding the vinegars and 2 tablespoons of the chicken juices. Cook for 1 minute. Serve the chicken topped with the onions and pan drippings. Serves 4 to 6. Adapted from Frédérick Grasser-Hermé.
Hazelnut-Lemon-Ricotta Pancakes
This recipe fuses the lemon-ricotta pancakes at the Four Seasons with the hazelnut waffles at Balthazar. I adapted a recipe for cottage-cheese pancakes from "Joy of Cooking," adding ricotta, lemon zest, hazelnuts and more salt.
Grated zest of 2 lemons
1/3 cup sugar
1 cup flour
½ cup finely ground toasted hazelnuts
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons melted butter
2 eggs, separated
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup ricotta, strained of any liquid.
1. The day before, rub together the lemon zest and sugar in a bowl. Cover.
2. Mix the flour, lemon sugar, hazelnuts, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In another bowl, whisk the milk, butter, egg yolks, vanilla and ricotta. Fold this into the dry ingredients. Whip the egg whites just until stiff, then fold them into the batter.
3. Heat a pancake griddle. Lightly coat the surface with butter, then use a ¼ cup measure to scoop the batter. Cook until the pancakes appear dry around the edges, about 3 minutes, then flip them and cook for another minute or two. Serve with honey. Serves 4.
Forum: Cooking and Recipes
The answers are always surprisingly mundane. The truffles are left behind, as is the Château d'Yquem. Packed up are bread (Balthazar), butter (French), bacon (Nueskies), coffee (La Colombe Torrefaction) and the like — the staples. But the one food that is almost never mentioned — and yet is the flavor upon which so many of the world's dishes depend — is the lemon.
We tend to forget the lemon. It is so common that, like salt in a list of ingredients, it escapes notice. And criticism. The sustainable-food police look the other way when it comes to the lemon. It is seasonless, sourceless, immune to fads, a commodity untouched by the shifting culinary winds. And unlike a staple like salt, which has many gradations and prices, the lemon is populist. Every cook, rich or poor, uses the fruit. It is also apolitical, employed by Republicans and Democrats, Sunnis and Shiites, Tamils and Sinhalese alike. It is the pillar of lemon-meringue pie, the sting in tabbouleh, the perfume in genoise, the zip in chicken tandoori, the structure in hollandaise, the clarity in a hot toddy and the fragrance in German hazelnut cookies.
Where sugar, coffee and flour addict us in various ways, the lemon has earned its place on merit alone. Lemon sharpens the flavor of soups and sauces. It prevents avocados and apples from discoloring. It neutralizes the oiliness of mayonnaise, helps fruit preserves to gel, cures fish and brightens pastry.
The lemon is also an efficient fruit, with two sources of flavor: the zest and the juice. The zest, which contains essential oils, has a floral aroma and less bite than the juice. It is the main ingredient in limoncello, a sweet, highly alcoholic digestif that has elbowed its way onto the drinks menu at New York restaurants like Gusto, Alto and Esca, where there is always a tub of zest macerating in vodka behind the bar. There's no reason not to make your own, either — it could not be easier or cheaper. All you do is infuse lemon zest in vodka for a couple of weeks, then sweeten it with sugar syrup, bottle it and put it in the freezer to await guests. After a big meal, its tingly, fragrant chill has a way of putting a little starch back in your sluggish senses.
At Babbo, the cooks have brought limoncello into the kitchen, where they whisk it into a vinaigrette spiced with dried red chili. It functions as an acid, with the vodka lending an amusing kick. The vinaigrette is used to dress grilled octopus, but it is also delicious on salad greens, as I tried at home. Grilled fish, artichokes and beets will be next.
Sometimes the zest is unwanted, as is the case with the preserved lemons Gabriel Kreuther makes at the Modern, at the Museum of Modern Art. He shaves the zest, then blanches the bald citrus before curing it with salt as well as sugar. With the lemon, nothing needs to be wasted. The leftover zest can be mixed with sugar to make a lemon sugar, much as you would make with spent vanilla-bean pods. It's an amicable arrangement: the zest perfumes the sugar, and the sugar cures the zest. You can chop the sugared zest and sprinkle it on desserts — a chocolate cake, for instance — or use the sugar to sweeten pancakes, cakes or ice cream.
Lemons are at their best when they find a balance between salty and sweet. A lemon tart is good only when there is not too much sugar in the curd and there is enough salt in the pastry. The best lemonade I have ever tasted was made with lemons that were first salted, to draw out any bitterness, before being squeezed and sweetened.
Like many cooks, I keep a file of recipes I want to try. When I looked through it recently, there were a preponderance of lemon recipes, including one for roasted chicken with lemons and Coca-Cola from Frédérick Grasser-Hermé. Again, the savory and sweet. A food writer who has worked with chefs like Alain Ducasse, Grasser-Hermé is also the wife of the Parisian pastry chef Pierre Hermé. It humored me that a French cook would deign to baste her chicken with Coke. But it makes perfect sense: like many drinks — wheat beer, iced tea, sangria, Vietnamese sugar-cane juice — Coca-Cola is always improved by a wedge of lemon.
So if you're ever banished to a desert island, you may want to reconsider your list. Lemons would make ceviche of the fish you catch, clean your hands and help prevent scurvy. And you can plant the seeds and grow your own.
Limoncello
12 lemons
1 750-milliliter bottle good vodka
½ cup sugar.
1. Finely grate the zest of the lemons. In a large jar, combine the zest and the vodka. Seal tightly and place in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks.
2. In a small saucepan over medium heat, dissolve the sugar in 1/2 cup water. Let cool.
3. Using a sieve lined with cheesecloth, set over a bowl, strain the vodka mixture. Stir the sugar syrup into it. Use a funnel to pour into a 1-liter bottle and seal. Place in a cool, dark place for 1 week, then chill in the freezer until ready to serve. Serves 1, or many.
Limoncello Vinaigrette
¼ cup limoncello (see recipe)
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 ½ teaspoons Dijon-style mustard
¼ teaspoon ground red-pepper flakes
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt to taste.
1. Whisk together the limoncello, lemon juice, lemon zest, mustard and red-pepper.
2. Whisk in the oil and season to taste with salt. Makes ¾ cup. Adapted from Babbo.
Chicken With Coca-Cola and Lemons
Juice of 3 lemons
1 4 ½ pound chicken, butterflied
3 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Zest of 2 lemons, removed with a vegetable peeler
Olive oil, for sautéeing
1 medium onion, thickly sliced
¼ cup finely julienned ginger
3 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped
1 cup Coca-Cola
½ teaspoon white vinegar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar.
1. In a large, rimmed dish, sprinkle the lemon juice over both sides of the chicken. Rub with the salt and pepper, then the lemon zest. Cover and chill for 4 hours.
2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the chicken, skin side up, in a roasting pan. Reserve the lemon juice, diluting it with 1 tablespoon water. Cover the chicken with foil and roast for 30 minutes, basting it with the lemon juice every 5 to 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, cover the bottom of a medium sauté pan with a thin film of olive oil. Place over medium heat and add the onion and ginger. Cook until the onions are soft and golden, about 8 minutes, then stir in the garlic. Season with salt and pepper.
4. After the chicken has cooked for 30 minutes, lower the heat to 300 degrees and remove the foil. Begin basting every 10 minutes with the Coca-Cola, until the chicken juices run clear, about 1 hour more. Reheat the onions, adding the vinegars and 2 tablespoons of the chicken juices. Cook for 1 minute. Serve the chicken topped with the onions and pan drippings. Serves 4 to 6. Adapted from Frédérick Grasser-Hermé.
Hazelnut-Lemon-Ricotta Pancakes
This recipe fuses the lemon-ricotta pancakes at the Four Seasons with the hazelnut waffles at Balthazar. I adapted a recipe for cottage-cheese pancakes from "Joy of Cooking," adding ricotta, lemon zest, hazelnuts and more salt.
Grated zest of 2 lemons
1/3 cup sugar
1 cup flour
½ cup finely ground toasted hazelnuts
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons melted butter
2 eggs, separated
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup ricotta, strained of any liquid.
1. The day before, rub together the lemon zest and sugar in a bowl. Cover.
2. Mix the flour, lemon sugar, hazelnuts, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In another bowl, whisk the milk, butter, egg yolks, vanilla and ricotta. Fold this into the dry ingredients. Whip the egg whites just until stiff, then fold them into the batter.
3. Heat a pancake griddle. Lightly coat the surface with butter, then use a ¼ cup measure to scoop the batter. Cook until the pancakes appear dry around the edges, about 3 minutes, then flip them and cook for another minute or two. Serve with honey. Serves 4.
Limoncello Collins
Ingredients
16 ounces limoncello (lemon-flavored liqueur)
12 ounces gin
8 ounces fresh lemon juice
24 paper–thin lemon slices
Ice
16 ounces chilled club soda
8 mint sprigs
Directions
1.In a pitcher, combine the limoncello, gin and lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours. Press 3 thin lemon slices against the inside of each of 8 collins glasses. Add ice to the glasses. Stir the limoncello mixture and pour it into the glasses. Stir 2 ounces of club soda into each drink and garnish with a mint sprig.
.
Ingredients
16 ounces limoncello (lemon-flavored liqueur)
12 ounces gin
8 ounces fresh lemon juice
24 paper–thin lemon slices
Ice
16 ounces chilled club soda
8 mint sprigs
Directions
1.In a pitcher, combine the limoncello, gin and lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours. Press 3 thin lemon slices against the inside of each of 8 collins glasses. Add ice to the glasses. Stir the limoncello mixture and pour it into the glasses. Stir 2 ounces of club soda into each drink and garnish with a mint sprig.
.
Limoncello
Limoncello Recipe
Wednesday, December 7, 2005
Limoncello
Makes about 3 1/4 quarts
Those who are lucky enough to receive this homemade lemon liqueur should keep it in the freezer, where it turns a milky white after 8 to 9 hours. It can be sipped straight-up, mixed with tonic or dashed into champagne. Recipe adapted from Magdalena Borea.
17 large lemons, preferably organic
Two 750-milliliter bottles grain alcohol
5 1/2 cups water
6 cups sugar
Wash and dry the lemons. With a paring knife, remove the ends. With a vegetable peeler, remove only the yellow rind, leaving the pith intact. (Squeeze juice from the lemons and reserve for another use.)
Place the lemon peel in a 4-quart Mason jar with a rubber-seal lid. Add the grain alcohol, making sure the lemon peel is completely covered. Store in a cool, dark place, shaking the jar once each day to agitate the lemon peel.
On the 13th day, bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the sugar and remove from the heat, stirring until it is dissolved. Cover and let cool to room temperature.
Place a colander on top of the saucepan and strain in the contents of the Mason jar. Discard the lemon peel. Stir to combine the liquids, about 1 minute. Transfer back to the Mason jar. Store for 3 weeks in a cool, dark place, shaking to agitate the liquid twice a day.
After 3 weeks, transfer the limoncello to smaller bottles that can be sealed with rubber stoppers. Store bottles in freezer. Serve directly from the freezer.
Per 1.5-ounce serving: 92 calories, 0 g protein, 19 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 g saturated fat, 1 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber
Recipe tested by Jill Grisco; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com
Wednesday, December 7, 2005
Limoncello
Makes about 3 1/4 quarts
Those who are lucky enough to receive this homemade lemon liqueur should keep it in the freezer, where it turns a milky white after 8 to 9 hours. It can be sipped straight-up, mixed with tonic or dashed into champagne. Recipe adapted from Magdalena Borea.
17 large lemons, preferably organic
Two 750-milliliter bottles grain alcohol
5 1/2 cups water
6 cups sugar
Wash and dry the lemons. With a paring knife, remove the ends. With a vegetable peeler, remove only the yellow rind, leaving the pith intact. (Squeeze juice from the lemons and reserve for another use.)
Place the lemon peel in a 4-quart Mason jar with a rubber-seal lid. Add the grain alcohol, making sure the lemon peel is completely covered. Store in a cool, dark place, shaking the jar once each day to agitate the lemon peel.
On the 13th day, bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the sugar and remove from the heat, stirring until it is dissolved. Cover and let cool to room temperature.
Place a colander on top of the saucepan and strain in the contents of the Mason jar. Discard the lemon peel. Stir to combine the liquids, about 1 minute. Transfer back to the Mason jar. Store for 3 weeks in a cool, dark place, shaking to agitate the liquid twice a day.
After 3 weeks, transfer the limoncello to smaller bottles that can be sealed with rubber stoppers. Store bottles in freezer. Serve directly from the freezer.
Per 1.5-ounce serving: 92 calories, 0 g protein, 19 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 g saturated fat, 1 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber
Recipe tested by Jill Grisco; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com
Everclear
Availability
Due to its high alcohol content, Everclear is illegal, unavailable, or difficult to find in many areas. In Canada, Everclear is sold in the province of Alberta, but not in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and most other provinces.[citation needed] In British Columbia, it is available for purchase with a permit for medical use, research use, or industrial use only.
[edit] 190-proof
Concentrations of 95.6 percent ethanol and 4.4 percent water form an azeotrope such that simple distillation cannot remove any of the remaining water; 190-proof spirits are the maximum available from the distilled beverage industry. In 1979, the Guinness Book of World Records listed 190-proof Everclear as “the most alcoholic drink”, and has since banned all alcohol-related entries from the book.
In the United States, it is illegal to sell the 190-proof variety in California, Florida,[3] Hawaii, Iowa,[4] Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota,[5] Nevada, New Hampshire, New York, North Carolina,[6] [7] Ohio, Virginia, and Washington.
Everclear 190 is legally sold in Alabama, Arizona, Colorado, Delaware, Georgia, Idaho,[8] Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maryland, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, New Jersey, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Oregon,[9] Rhode Island, South Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Wisconsin, and Wyoming, and in some military stores within the continental United States.
[edit] 151-proof
The 151-proof variety is legally sold in California, Florida, Iowa,[4] Michigan,[10] Minnesota, Nevada, North Dakota, Washington, West Virginia, and some other states.
Due to its high alcohol content, Everclear is illegal, unavailable, or difficult to find in many areas. In Canada, Everclear is sold in the province of Alberta, but not in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and most other provinces.[citation needed] In British Columbia, it is available for purchase with a permit for medical use, research use, or industrial use only.
[edit] 190-proof
Concentrations of 95.6 percent ethanol and 4.4 percent water form an azeotrope such that simple distillation cannot remove any of the remaining water; 190-proof spirits are the maximum available from the distilled beverage industry. In 1979, the Guinness Book of World Records listed 190-proof Everclear as “the most alcoholic drink”, and has since banned all alcohol-related entries from the book.
In the United States, it is illegal to sell the 190-proof variety in California, Florida,[3] Hawaii, Iowa,[4] Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota,[5] Nevada, New Hampshire, New York, North Carolina,[6] [7] Ohio, Virginia, and Washington.
Everclear 190 is legally sold in Alabama, Arizona, Colorado, Delaware, Georgia, Idaho,[8] Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maryland, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, New Jersey, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Oregon,[9] Rhode Island, South Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Wisconsin, and Wyoming, and in some military stores within the continental United States.
[edit] 151-proof
The 151-proof variety is legally sold in California, Florida, Iowa,[4] Michigan,[10] Minnesota, Nevada, North Dakota, Washington, West Virginia, and some other states.
How To Make Limoncello
introHow To Make Limoncello
Limoncello is a sweet, lemon-flavored Italian liqueur. Unlike many liqueurs, it's very easy to make at home, requiring only the most basic of ingredients and tools. Doing so is easy but rewarding--from a scientific perspective for the chemistry involved in the process, and from a culinary perspective for the simple joy of drinking something you made from scratch.
One of the interesting things about limoncello is that it isn't sour at all (if it's made properly). This is because there's no lemon juice in it. The lemon flavor comes from lemon zest--the very outside of the lemon peel, where the essential oils are most concentrated.
In its native Italy, limoncello is most frequently taken cold, as a digestif (an after-dinner drink). I find it especially refreshing early in the evening on a hot day, but it's enjoyable any time you like.
step 1Overview
So, how do you make this wonderful stuff? The ingredients are as follows:
1 750 mL bottle of grain alcohol ( Everclear or similar, also known as rectified spirit --as long as it's potable, strong, and unflavored you'll be fine)
Zest of 8 lemons
Sugar
Water
Simple, yes? Oh, you'll also need a glass jar in which to keep the stuff. Be sure you have lots of spare room, as you'll add more liquid later. Mine is two liters, and works great.
You want to get the strongest alcohol you can get your hands on. Vodka, even the 100 proof stuff, isn't sufficient. In some states, such as Nevada, you can get 190-proof Everclear, which is 95% ethyl alcohol. Alas, California isn't one of them, so I'll make do with 151 proof (75.5% alcohol, which is still pretty stiff). You can as well, but go with the high-test if you get it. You'll dilute it down to something drinkable later; right now we need a strong but potable nonpolar solvent, and high-proof alcohol fits the bill. I understand an old catalog came with a disclaimer that Everclear was to be used "for the production of homemade cordials," or some such, which is exactly what you're doing here.
image not found
Lemons. I got mine at Safeway, but I'd like to try it with some from the farmer's market. I've never tried Meyer lemons, and don't know whether they'd make a difference, but they might be worth a small batch.tellumo
Glass jar. I'd removed the lid when I was taking these pictures.tellumoi
Apr 23, 2009. 10:08 AMImmanis says:
I've tried this recipe 3 times now (it makes great Christmas gifts), and every time I do it, I have to make more and more. This time, I diversified into Lemoncello, Orangecello, Limecello, and Grapefruitcello - my favorite
introHow To Make Limoncello
Limoncello is a sweet, lemon-flavored Italian liqueur. Unlike many liqueurs, it's very easy to make at home, requiring only the most basic of ingredients and tools. Doing so is easy but rewarding--from a scientific perspective for the chemistry involved in the process, and from a culinary perspective for the simple joy of drinking something you made from scratch.
One of the interesting things about limoncello is that it isn't sour at all (if it's made properly). This is because there's no lemon juice in it. The lemon flavor comes from lemon zest--the very outside of the lemon peel, where the essential oils are most concentrated.
In its native Italy, limoncello is most frequently taken cold, as a digestif (an after-dinner drink). I find it especially refreshing early in the evening on a hot day, but it's enjoyable any time you like.
step 1Overview
So, how do you make this wonderful stuff? The ingredients are as follows:
1 750 mL bottle of grain alcohol ( Everclear or similar, also known as rectified spirit --as long as it's potable, strong, and unflavored you'll be fine)
Zest of 8 lemons
Sugar
Water
Simple, yes? Oh, you'll also need a glass jar in which to keep the stuff. Be sure you have lots of spare room, as you'll add more liquid later. Mine is two liters, and works great.
You want to get the strongest alcohol you can get your hands on. Vodka, even the 100 proof stuff, isn't sufficient. In some states, such as Nevada, you can get 190-proof Everclear, which is 95% ethyl alcohol. Alas, California isn't one of them, so I'll make do with 151 proof (75.5% alcohol, which is still pretty stiff). You can as well, but go with the high-test if you get it. You'll dilute it down to something drinkable later; right now we need a strong but potable nonpolar solvent, and high-proof alcohol fits the bill. I understand an old catalog came with a disclaimer that Everclear was to be used "for the production of homemade cordials," or some such, which is exactly what you're doing here.
image not found
Lemons. I got mine at Safeway, but I'd like to try it with some from the farmer's market. I've never tried Meyer lemons, and don't know whether they'd make a difference, but they might be worth a small batch.tellumo
Glass jar. I'd removed the lid when I was taking these pictures.tellumoi
Apr 23, 2009. 10:08 AMImmanis says:
I've tried this recipe 3 times now (it makes great Christmas gifts), and every time I do it, I have to make more and more. This time, I diversified into Lemoncello, Orangecello, Limecello, and Grapefruitcello - my favorite
Limeoncello
How to Make Limoncello
This is basically a long-form of the Limoncello recipe that omits no details or explanations. If you plan to make Limoncello at home and have never tried it before, you should read this very closely.
Step One: Cut a hole in the box. (Just kidding.) The first step is actually to select your lemons. Whenever possible, select organic lemons because it’s actually the skin you use in making Limoncello and that’s also where all the pesticide is. Organic lemons also aren’t waxed, which is more crap that ends up in your liquor. Try to choose thick-skinned lemons with smooth skin. The reason for this is that it’s a heck of a lot easier to zest a lemon with smooth skin. And it kind of goes without saying that you should pick ones that don’t have stickers on them if possible.
Step Two: Wash the lemons. You’ll need to do this whether or not they are organic but if they aren’t organic it’s more of an ordeal. You need to scrub them under very warm water with a vegetable brush or some other plastic scrubber. Remove all stickers or stamps and as much of the wax as possible. Then dry them with a paper towel.
Step Three: Zest the lemons. Doing this step quickly and doing it well requires a Microplane Zester because anything else just doesn’t work in my experience. I like to put a cutting board or a large piece of aluminum foil down to catch all the zest. Then you just use the zester to remove a thin layer of zest from the whole lemon. If you get even a little bit of the white pith just below the zest, it will make your Limoncello bitter. So don’t take chances, if the lemon is bumpy and you can’t get all the zest without hitting the pith elsewhere, let it go. The lemon in the picture on the left has been zested. Notice how it is still yellow because I just removed the outer skin without touching the pith anywhere. This step is all about quality over quantity. My recipe calls for 2 more lemons than what you typically see because it is so important not to worry about not having enough zest here and digging into the lemon for more is not allowed. This step used to take me nearly two hours when I used other types of zesters or peelers but with the Microplane I can zest all 17 lemons in about half an hour.
Step Four: Filter the liquor. This should actually be done simultaneously with the zesting to save time. I use a Brita pitcher that I bought for this purpose but any similar water filtration pitcher will do. I pour one bottle in, let it filter, pour it into a regular clean pitcher, then back in the top and I repeat the filtration four times for each bottle of liquor. I’m still testing how worthwhile this is and how many filtrations are optimal but four is my current standard. I filter regardless of what kind of liquor I use.
Speaking of that, whenever possible I use grain alcohol for authenticity. It’s difficult to get because many states don’t allow it to be sold. I’ve found though that vodka has a flavor of its own that is imparted to the Limoncello and I’m not a big fan of that. However, it is much better than nothing so the next best thing is 100 proof, mid-grade Vodka. If you must, use the 80 proof but more alcohol is better for making Limoncello to a certain point. I have found 151 proof grain alcohol to be much easier to take in a young final product than the 190 proof grain alcohol. You need the patience of Job to use that stuff.
Step Five: Combine the zest and the filtered liquor into a very clean one gallon glass jar and screw the lid on tight. If the lid isn’t tight enough, put a piece of plastic wrap on the top before screwing on the lid. You can use any glass jar of sufficient size and I have different ones for different purposes. The one on the left in the image is a stylish but smaller jar that I use for test batches that are half of a normal batch. I got it and others like it at Home Goods. The one on the right that’s full of Limoncello is a basic one that holds an entire batch. I got it at Wal-Mart for a couple bucks. I’ve also found good jars at Marshall’s and online. Put a label on the jar that tells you at least the date of when you made it, if not other details about how you made it. I use a label maker to number my batches and track in an Excel sheet what I do differently each time but that’s probably more anal than most people need to be.
Step Six: Wait. I tend to keep each batch in my kitchen for the first week to ten days and I shake it up about four times during that initial period. Some people say that isn’t necessary but I like to do it. After that I put it in my basement because of the “out of sight, out of mind” factor. It’s easier to wait if you don’t see it sitting there all the time. I let the mixture sit and infuse for a minimum of 45 days, longer if I can stand it or if I forget about it. This is where all of the lemon flavor comes from so don’t short-change yourself here. If you absolutely must have it sooner, reduce wait times from later steps first.
Step Seven: Add the simple syrup. My standard recipe is to bring 5 cups of water just to a boil and then remove it from the heat and stir in 3.5 cups of white sugar. You then let it sit until it comes down to room temperature. I use filtered water for this and I now always use regular white sugar. I’ve tried other types of sugar but raw sugars tend to have subtle flavors of their own (most notably molasses) that will show up in the final product. If that sounds ok to you, give it a whirl, but I didn’t like it. I’ve also heard that you should not stir the sugar but rather let the low boil mix the two instead. I’ve tried it both ways and never noticed a difference though. Once the simple syrup cools down you can just add it to the lemon/liquor infusion, screw the lid back on and shake the jar. Mark on the label the date you mixed the infusion with the simple syrup.
Step Eight: Wait some more. I now put the mixture back in the basement and wait for at least another 45 days. The longer the mixture rests, the smoother the flavor of the final product. I am convinced of this fact. Though I’ll leave this step in as the official recipe, in practice I usually filter and then let it sit longer in the bottle.
Step Nine: Filter the Limoncello. This is one of the most important steps and by far the most laborious. My process is to filter less than some people recommend but I’ve found that it’s enough to get the job done and this is one job you’ll want to keep as short as possible. However, you should never skip it. I’ve skipped the filtration and the result resembles dirty bath water more than Limoncello. The filtration actually gives it the color, clarity and flavor you expect from Limoncello.
My first filtering pass is with a flat-bottom permanent coffee filter that you can buy at the grocery store. I put it right in the funnel and the funnel in the pitcher or whatever container I’m using. Then I ladel the Limoncello out of the storage jar and through the filter. This first pass removes all of the zest and other large debris. Then comes the tough part. I take flat-bottom disposable coffee filters, the ones with the fluted edging, and put them inside the permanent filter. This is basically double-filtering and I repeat this step a second time. Then on the last pass I just put it through the permanent filter by itself just in case any debris or zest gets back in there during the filtration process. So, that makes two filtrations with just the permanent filter and two filtrations with the permanent plus disposable filters.
When filtering, you want to be patient and preserve as much of the liquid as possible but there will come a point when it looks like there’s more liquid at the bottom but no more liquid is dripping through. Do NOT try to salvage that liquid. Throw it away along with the filter (or wash the filter) because that stuff is exactly what you’re filtering in the first place. There’s some great info on filtering liquors here.
Step Ten: Bottle the Limoncello. On the last filtration, I funnel the liquid directly into whatever bottles I’m using. Because I’m anal about this, I wash, dry and then sterilize the bottles first. You can sterilize them by putting aluminum foil over the top and baking them in the oven at 350 degrees for an hour. Then just don’t take off the aluminum foil until they are ready for use. This isn’t really necessary for Limoncello (it is for beer) but it makes me feel like the bottles are clean enough. I use either the bottles the liquor came in (if it’s for my own use) or some 500ml bottles with swing caps (if I want to give bottles away). You can find any kind of bottle you want by searching for glassware or brewing supplies on Google. I’ve also heard that if you give it away you should put on a label saying that it is a gift and not intended for resale to pacify the ATF guys. I’ve yet to give much away outside of the family so it hasn’t been an issue for me. At the left are two swing top examples, the one on the left I bought online and it holds 500ml of liquor. The one on the right I got at a Crate & Barrel outlet store and it holds about 250ml of liquor. They both cost around $2.50-$3 each. If I’m bottling Limoncello for my own use, I usually just clean and use the bottles that the vodka/everclear originally came in.
You’re done! A few bonus tips for you though. In my experience the Limoncello mellows a lot in the first week. I realize this is torture but if you’re not in a tremendous hurry, I recommend doing the first tasting a week or so after bottling. The longer Limoncello sits, the smoother it gets. This is more important if you’re making it with grain alcohol than vodka but it still holds true. I taste a given batch at one week, six months and one year of age. Never has a batch been around longer than that or I’d taste it at later intervals as well. Enjoy!
This is basically a long-form of the Limoncello recipe that omits no details or explanations. If you plan to make Limoncello at home and have never tried it before, you should read this very closely.
Step One: Cut a hole in the box. (Just kidding.) The first step is actually to select your lemons. Whenever possible, select organic lemons because it’s actually the skin you use in making Limoncello and that’s also where all the pesticide is. Organic lemons also aren’t waxed, which is more crap that ends up in your liquor. Try to choose thick-skinned lemons with smooth skin. The reason for this is that it’s a heck of a lot easier to zest a lemon with smooth skin. And it kind of goes without saying that you should pick ones that don’t have stickers on them if possible.
Step Two: Wash the lemons. You’ll need to do this whether or not they are organic but if they aren’t organic it’s more of an ordeal. You need to scrub them under very warm water with a vegetable brush or some other plastic scrubber. Remove all stickers or stamps and as much of the wax as possible. Then dry them with a paper towel.
Step Three: Zest the lemons. Doing this step quickly and doing it well requires a Microplane Zester because anything else just doesn’t work in my experience. I like to put a cutting board or a large piece of aluminum foil down to catch all the zest. Then you just use the zester to remove a thin layer of zest from the whole lemon. If you get even a little bit of the white pith just below the zest, it will make your Limoncello bitter. So don’t take chances, if the lemon is bumpy and you can’t get all the zest without hitting the pith elsewhere, let it go. The lemon in the picture on the left has been zested. Notice how it is still yellow because I just removed the outer skin without touching the pith anywhere. This step is all about quality over quantity. My recipe calls for 2 more lemons than what you typically see because it is so important not to worry about not having enough zest here and digging into the lemon for more is not allowed. This step used to take me nearly two hours when I used other types of zesters or peelers but with the Microplane I can zest all 17 lemons in about half an hour.
Step Four: Filter the liquor. This should actually be done simultaneously with the zesting to save time. I use a Brita pitcher that I bought for this purpose but any similar water filtration pitcher will do. I pour one bottle in, let it filter, pour it into a regular clean pitcher, then back in the top and I repeat the filtration four times for each bottle of liquor. I’m still testing how worthwhile this is and how many filtrations are optimal but four is my current standard. I filter regardless of what kind of liquor I use.
Speaking of that, whenever possible I use grain alcohol for authenticity. It’s difficult to get because many states don’t allow it to be sold. I’ve found though that vodka has a flavor of its own that is imparted to the Limoncello and I’m not a big fan of that. However, it is much better than nothing so the next best thing is 100 proof, mid-grade Vodka. If you must, use the 80 proof but more alcohol is better for making Limoncello to a certain point. I have found 151 proof grain alcohol to be much easier to take in a young final product than the 190 proof grain alcohol. You need the patience of Job to use that stuff.
Step Five: Combine the zest and the filtered liquor into a very clean one gallon glass jar and screw the lid on tight. If the lid isn’t tight enough, put a piece of plastic wrap on the top before screwing on the lid. You can use any glass jar of sufficient size and I have different ones for different purposes. The one on the left in the image is a stylish but smaller jar that I use for test batches that are half of a normal batch. I got it and others like it at Home Goods. The one on the right that’s full of Limoncello is a basic one that holds an entire batch. I got it at Wal-Mart for a couple bucks. I’ve also found good jars at Marshall’s and online. Put a label on the jar that tells you at least the date of when you made it, if not other details about how you made it. I use a label maker to number my batches and track in an Excel sheet what I do differently each time but that’s probably more anal than most people need to be.
Step Six: Wait. I tend to keep each batch in my kitchen for the first week to ten days and I shake it up about four times during that initial period. Some people say that isn’t necessary but I like to do it. After that I put it in my basement because of the “out of sight, out of mind” factor. It’s easier to wait if you don’t see it sitting there all the time. I let the mixture sit and infuse for a minimum of 45 days, longer if I can stand it or if I forget about it. This is where all of the lemon flavor comes from so don’t short-change yourself here. If you absolutely must have it sooner, reduce wait times from later steps first.
Step Seven: Add the simple syrup. My standard recipe is to bring 5 cups of water just to a boil and then remove it from the heat and stir in 3.5 cups of white sugar. You then let it sit until it comes down to room temperature. I use filtered water for this and I now always use regular white sugar. I’ve tried other types of sugar but raw sugars tend to have subtle flavors of their own (most notably molasses) that will show up in the final product. If that sounds ok to you, give it a whirl, but I didn’t like it. I’ve also heard that you should not stir the sugar but rather let the low boil mix the two instead. I’ve tried it both ways and never noticed a difference though. Once the simple syrup cools down you can just add it to the lemon/liquor infusion, screw the lid back on and shake the jar. Mark on the label the date you mixed the infusion with the simple syrup.
Step Eight: Wait some more. I now put the mixture back in the basement and wait for at least another 45 days. The longer the mixture rests, the smoother the flavor of the final product. I am convinced of this fact. Though I’ll leave this step in as the official recipe, in practice I usually filter and then let it sit longer in the bottle.
Step Nine: Filter the Limoncello. This is one of the most important steps and by far the most laborious. My process is to filter less than some people recommend but I’ve found that it’s enough to get the job done and this is one job you’ll want to keep as short as possible. However, you should never skip it. I’ve skipped the filtration and the result resembles dirty bath water more than Limoncello. The filtration actually gives it the color, clarity and flavor you expect from Limoncello.
My first filtering pass is with a flat-bottom permanent coffee filter that you can buy at the grocery store. I put it right in the funnel and the funnel in the pitcher or whatever container I’m using. Then I ladel the Limoncello out of the storage jar and through the filter. This first pass removes all of the zest and other large debris. Then comes the tough part. I take flat-bottom disposable coffee filters, the ones with the fluted edging, and put them inside the permanent filter. This is basically double-filtering and I repeat this step a second time. Then on the last pass I just put it through the permanent filter by itself just in case any debris or zest gets back in there during the filtration process. So, that makes two filtrations with just the permanent filter and two filtrations with the permanent plus disposable filters.
When filtering, you want to be patient and preserve as much of the liquid as possible but there will come a point when it looks like there’s more liquid at the bottom but no more liquid is dripping through. Do NOT try to salvage that liquid. Throw it away along with the filter (or wash the filter) because that stuff is exactly what you’re filtering in the first place. There’s some great info on filtering liquors here.
Step Ten: Bottle the Limoncello. On the last filtration, I funnel the liquid directly into whatever bottles I’m using. Because I’m anal about this, I wash, dry and then sterilize the bottles first. You can sterilize them by putting aluminum foil over the top and baking them in the oven at 350 degrees for an hour. Then just don’t take off the aluminum foil until they are ready for use. This isn’t really necessary for Limoncello (it is for beer) but it makes me feel like the bottles are clean enough. I use either the bottles the liquor came in (if it’s for my own use) or some 500ml bottles with swing caps (if I want to give bottles away). You can find any kind of bottle you want by searching for glassware or brewing supplies on Google. I’ve also heard that if you give it away you should put on a label saying that it is a gift and not intended for resale to pacify the ATF guys. I’ve yet to give much away outside of the family so it hasn’t been an issue for me. At the left are two swing top examples, the one on the left I bought online and it holds 500ml of liquor. The one on the right I got at a Crate & Barrel outlet store and it holds about 250ml of liquor. They both cost around $2.50-$3 each. If I’m bottling Limoncello for my own use, I usually just clean and use the bottles that the vodka/everclear originally came in.
You’re done! A few bonus tips for you though. In my experience the Limoncello mellows a lot in the first week. I realize this is torture but if you’re not in a tremendous hurry, I recommend doing the first tasting a week or so after bottling. The longer Limoncello sits, the smoother it gets. This is more important if you’re making it with grain alcohol than vodka but it still holds true. I taste a given batch at one week, six months and one year of age. Never has a batch been around longer than that or I’d taste it at later intervals as well. Enjoy!
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Food weekend
Azizza - beet sorbet and goat milk granita. freshing. palate cleanser. Fish spot on. Cooked with care and precision. Fluffy.
Cotogna - raw egg ravioli in brown butter. Bread to sop it up. $16.
LaVie - house crab defnitely good, but I think the salt and pepper with jalapeno crab is super good. love the toppings. had it with calaramari -- and we found excuses to put the leftover bits to put on to other dishes.
Cotogna - raw egg ravioli in brown butter. Bread to sop it up. $16.
LaVie - house crab defnitely good, but I think the salt and pepper with jalapeno crab is super good. love the toppings. had it with calaramari -- and we found excuses to put the leftover bits to put on to other dishes.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
udon
Secrets behind Udon Carbonara from Umami
Michael Bauer
Read more: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/10/15/FD151FPT6H.DTL#ixzz16HMzd2nF
East meets west seamlessly in the Udon Carbonara from Umami, the Japanese-inspired restaurant from Sam Josi and the other owners of Mamacita and Tipsy Pig.
For this dish Josi adds the flavors of Japan - kombu (dried kelp), bonito and thick noodles - to the classic ingredients found in the Italian carbonara, along with the added attraction of corn.
Generally I'm not wild about these types of cultural mix-ups, but in this case it works spectacularly with chewy, somewhat doughy noodles, coated with bacon-scented cream, eggs and, if you like, a little crab. Who would have thought that these flavors would blend so flawlessly? But one taste and I was convinced.
In fact this restaurant does many interesting cross-cultural mashups, including wax and yellow green beans battered with buckwheat and beer, fried to a shattering crispness and served with an eggplant-sambal baba ghanoush. The menu also includes edamame hummus, king crab potato cakes and ahi "poke" tacos. Yet the sushi, much of it flown in on weekends from the famed Tsukiji fish market of Tokyo, is as pure as you'd find in Japan.
With its cocktails and inventive food, this stylish restaurant has found an equally stylish Marina crowd, much like its sister restaurants.
Umami, 2909 Webster St. (at Union Street), San Francisco. (415) 346-3431. Open for dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
The secrets
Udon noodles: These are thicker and chewier than normal pasta, providing a formidable texture to carry the meaty flavors.
Dashi: This seafaring flavor makes the base of the sauce, overlaid with cream and bacon; it adds an even more pronounced dash of umami.
Corn: The kernels add sweet, juicy bursts that keep the flavors from becoming monotonous.
Udon Carbonara
Serves 2 to 4
From Umami executive chef Sam Josi, who serves a quail egg yolk atop individual portions.
•Dashi (or use instant)
•2 pieces kombu (dried kelp), each about 4-inches square
•1/2 cup dried bonito flakes
•Udon
•2 slices high-quality bacon such as Niman's, cut crosswise into 1/4 inch pieces
•3/4 cup yellow corn kernels
•2 peeled garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
•1/3 cup king crab or Dungeness crab meat, about 1 1/2 ounces (optional)
•1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
•1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper + more to taste
•1 1/4 cups dashi (see above, or substitute with water or shellfish stock)
•1 tablespoon miso paste
•3 tablespoons heavy cream
•1 large egg yolk
•2 individual 6-ounce packages fresh udon noodles (see Note)
•-- Lemon juice to taste
•1 1/2 tablespoons chives, 3/4-inch lengths
•1 tablespoon toasted black sesame seeds
For the dashi: Wipe the kombu clean; give it a few slits with a knife to open up the tough, rough exterior. Place the kombu and 2 quarts water in a sauce pan over medium-high heat; bring to just shy of a boil - just until small bubbles are fully formed along the bottom. Lower the heat, discard the kombu and add the dried bonito flakes. Keep the pan over the heat until the bonito falls to the bottom of the pan, about three minutes. Skim foam then strain with a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth; let cool and store refrigerated in an air tight container. The dashi will keep refrigerated several days, otherwise freeze.
For the sauce: Cut bacon crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces. Place in large skillet and cook - stirring occasionally - until fat is rendered and bacon is somewhat crispy with some caramelization, about 6-8 minutes. Drain all but about 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat; leave the bacon in the pan. Add corn, sliced garlic, salt to taste, 1/8 teaspoon white pepper, and crab if using. Increase heat to medium-high and cook for a minute, stirring often. Meanwhile whisk the 1 1/2 cups dashi and miso together, add to skillet and reduce by half. Add cream and reduce further until it resembles a loose cream sauce. Keep sauce warm, but do not simmer.
To assemble: Meanwhile, cook noodles in well-salted water. Drain and add to skillet; toss until well coated; warm over medium heat until the sauce thickens and the noodles are heated through. Taste and toss with lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the chives and more pepper and salt if needed. Take off heat.
Place all the noodles in one large bowl, Garnish with remaining chives and sesame seeds. Make a small indentation in the middle of the noodles for the egg yolk. Stir at the table before serving.
If dividing into smaller portions, let noodles cool for two minutes, then stir in egg before serving. Garnish with remaining chives immediately.
Note: Udon can be easily found in Japanese food stores either frozen or in the refrigerator case.
Per serving: 471 calories, 19 g protein, 57 g carbohydrate, 16 g fat (7 g saturated), 86 mg cholesterol, 1,025 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.
Wine pairing: Try the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley Riesling ($14) to balance out the umami.
Michael Bauer is The Chronicle's restaurant critic. E-mail him at mbauer@sfchronicle.com, and go to sfgate.com/food to read his previous Chefs' Secrets columns.
This article appeared on page K - 3 of the San Francisco Chronicle
Read more: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/10/15/FD151FPT6H.DTL#ixzz16HMkqF6O
Michael Bauer
Read more: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/10/15/FD151FPT6H.DTL#ixzz16HMzd2nF
East meets west seamlessly in the Udon Carbonara from Umami, the Japanese-inspired restaurant from Sam Josi and the other owners of Mamacita and Tipsy Pig.
For this dish Josi adds the flavors of Japan - kombu (dried kelp), bonito and thick noodles - to the classic ingredients found in the Italian carbonara, along with the added attraction of corn.
Generally I'm not wild about these types of cultural mix-ups, but in this case it works spectacularly with chewy, somewhat doughy noodles, coated with bacon-scented cream, eggs and, if you like, a little crab. Who would have thought that these flavors would blend so flawlessly? But one taste and I was convinced.
In fact this restaurant does many interesting cross-cultural mashups, including wax and yellow green beans battered with buckwheat and beer, fried to a shattering crispness and served with an eggplant-sambal baba ghanoush. The menu also includes edamame hummus, king crab potato cakes and ahi "poke" tacos. Yet the sushi, much of it flown in on weekends from the famed Tsukiji fish market of Tokyo, is as pure as you'd find in Japan.
With its cocktails and inventive food, this stylish restaurant has found an equally stylish Marina crowd, much like its sister restaurants.
Umami, 2909 Webster St. (at Union Street), San Francisco. (415) 346-3431. Open for dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
The secrets
Udon noodles: These are thicker and chewier than normal pasta, providing a formidable texture to carry the meaty flavors.
Dashi: This seafaring flavor makes the base of the sauce, overlaid with cream and bacon; it adds an even more pronounced dash of umami.
Corn: The kernels add sweet, juicy bursts that keep the flavors from becoming monotonous.
Udon Carbonara
Serves 2 to 4
From Umami executive chef Sam Josi, who serves a quail egg yolk atop individual portions.
•Dashi (or use instant)
•2 pieces kombu (dried kelp), each about 4-inches square
•1/2 cup dried bonito flakes
•Udon
•2 slices high-quality bacon such as Niman's, cut crosswise into 1/4 inch pieces
•3/4 cup yellow corn kernels
•2 peeled garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
•1/3 cup king crab or Dungeness crab meat, about 1 1/2 ounces (optional)
•1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
•1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper + more to taste
•1 1/4 cups dashi (see above, or substitute with water or shellfish stock)
•1 tablespoon miso paste
•3 tablespoons heavy cream
•1 large egg yolk
•2 individual 6-ounce packages fresh udon noodles (see Note)
•-- Lemon juice to taste
•1 1/2 tablespoons chives, 3/4-inch lengths
•1 tablespoon toasted black sesame seeds
For the dashi: Wipe the kombu clean; give it a few slits with a knife to open up the tough, rough exterior. Place the kombu and 2 quarts water in a sauce pan over medium-high heat; bring to just shy of a boil - just until small bubbles are fully formed along the bottom. Lower the heat, discard the kombu and add the dried bonito flakes. Keep the pan over the heat until the bonito falls to the bottom of the pan, about three minutes. Skim foam then strain with a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth; let cool and store refrigerated in an air tight container. The dashi will keep refrigerated several days, otherwise freeze.
For the sauce: Cut bacon crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces. Place in large skillet and cook - stirring occasionally - until fat is rendered and bacon is somewhat crispy with some caramelization, about 6-8 minutes. Drain all but about 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat; leave the bacon in the pan. Add corn, sliced garlic, salt to taste, 1/8 teaspoon white pepper, and crab if using. Increase heat to medium-high and cook for a minute, stirring often. Meanwhile whisk the 1 1/2 cups dashi and miso together, add to skillet and reduce by half. Add cream and reduce further until it resembles a loose cream sauce. Keep sauce warm, but do not simmer.
To assemble: Meanwhile, cook noodles in well-salted water. Drain and add to skillet; toss until well coated; warm over medium heat until the sauce thickens and the noodles are heated through. Taste and toss with lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the chives and more pepper and salt if needed. Take off heat.
Place all the noodles in one large bowl, Garnish with remaining chives and sesame seeds. Make a small indentation in the middle of the noodles for the egg yolk. Stir at the table before serving.
If dividing into smaller portions, let noodles cool for two minutes, then stir in egg before serving. Garnish with remaining chives immediately.
Note: Udon can be easily found in Japanese food stores either frozen or in the refrigerator case.
Per serving: 471 calories, 19 g protein, 57 g carbohydrate, 16 g fat (7 g saturated), 86 mg cholesterol, 1,025 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.
Wine pairing: Try the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley Riesling ($14) to balance out the umami.
Michael Bauer is The Chronicle's restaurant critic. E-mail him at mbauer@sfchronicle.com, and go to sfgate.com/food to read his previous Chefs' Secrets columns.
This article appeared on page K - 3 of the San Francisco Chronicle
Read more: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/10/15/FD151FPT6H.DTL#ixzz16HMkqF6O
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Thai restaurants in Chicago
Thai something (need to get full name) in Niles, Milwaukee, off of Touhy
- deep fried catfish salad - which is really salad with a lacy catfish crouton. fresh, limey, sweet, crunch, cold, hot, and a little fatty.
- mussells with fried rice. Oh. My. God.
- dried meat sticks with jasmine rice on the side. the red Sauce. yummmm!
- thai basil chicken with fried egg. the Egg. lovely. crunchy, and deep fried. (Dang, why didn't I take a picture of this stuff? Bad blogger).
- ice cream with rabutan? a nice fresh way to end the meal.
- deep fried catfish salad - which is really salad with a lacy catfish crouton. fresh, limey, sweet, crunch, cold, hot, and a little fatty.
- mussells with fried rice. Oh. My. God.
- dried meat sticks with jasmine rice on the side. the red Sauce. yummmm!
- thai basil chicken with fried egg. the Egg. lovely. crunchy, and deep fried. (Dang, why didn't I take a picture of this stuff? Bad blogger).
- ice cream with rabutan? a nice fresh way to end the meal.
Melon soup
Mix and Match Melon Soup
Ingredients
Serves 8
1/2 large honeydew melon, seeds and rind removed, cut into large chunks
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1/4 cup Moscato d'Asti, or other sparkling wine or ginger ale
1/4 cup loosely packed mint leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cantaloupe, seeds and rind removed, cut into large chunks
1/3 cup creme fraiche, or plain yogurt
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Directions
1.In a food processor, puree honeydew, lime juice, moscato, mint, and 1/4 teaspoon salt until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, and refrigerate.
2.Rinse out food-processor bowl. In food processor, puree cantaloupe, creme fraiche, honey, lemon juice, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate. Both soups can be made 24 hours in advance.
3.To serve soups, divide three-fourths of the honeydew soup among four soup bowls, and divide three-fourths of the cantaloupe soup among four other soup bowls. Garnish each serving of honeydew soup with remaining cantaloupe soup, and each serving of cantaloupe soup with remaining honeydew soup. Serve immediately.
.
Read more at Marthastewart.com: Mix and Match Melon Soup - Martha Stewart Recipes
Ingredients
Serves 8
1/2 large honeydew melon, seeds and rind removed, cut into large chunks
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1/4 cup Moscato d'Asti, or other sparkling wine or ginger ale
1/4 cup loosely packed mint leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cantaloupe, seeds and rind removed, cut into large chunks
1/3 cup creme fraiche, or plain yogurt
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Directions
1.In a food processor, puree honeydew, lime juice, moscato, mint, and 1/4 teaspoon salt until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, and refrigerate.
2.Rinse out food-processor bowl. In food processor, puree cantaloupe, creme fraiche, honey, lemon juice, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate. Both soups can be made 24 hours in advance.
3.To serve soups, divide three-fourths of the honeydew soup among four soup bowls, and divide three-fourths of the cantaloupe soup among four other soup bowls. Garnish each serving of honeydew soup with remaining cantaloupe soup, and each serving of cantaloupe soup with remaining honeydew soup. Serve immediately.
.
Read more at Marthastewart.com: Mix and Match Melon Soup - Martha Stewart Recipes
Summer Melon Soup with Crab
Summer Melon Soup with Crab
Ingredients
1 medium shallot, minced
2 tablespoons snipped chives
3 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons sugar
4 cups cubed cantaloupe or muskmelon
Directions
1.In a medium bowl, stir the shallot and chives into 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice. Whisk in the olive oil and fold in the crab. Season with salt and white pepper.
2.In a small saucepan, boil the water with the sugar. Transfer to a blender and let cool. Add the melon and the remaining lemon juice, season lightly with salt and puree.
3.Mound the crab in the center of 4 shallow bowls. Pour the soup around the crab and serve right away.
Make Ahead
The melon soup can be refrigerated overnight.
Notes
One serving 271 cal, 9 gm fat, 1.3 gm sat fat, 24 gm carb, 1.5 gm fiber. .
Ingredients
1 medium shallot, minced
2 tablespoons snipped chives
3 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons sugar
4 cups cubed cantaloupe or muskmelon
Directions
1.In a medium bowl, stir the shallot and chives into 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice. Whisk in the olive oil and fold in the crab. Season with salt and white pepper.
2.In a small saucepan, boil the water with the sugar. Transfer to a blender and let cool. Add the melon and the remaining lemon juice, season lightly with salt and puree.
3.Mound the crab in the center of 4 shallow bowls. Pour the soup around the crab and serve right away.
Make Ahead
The melon soup can be refrigerated overnight.
Notes
One serving 271 cal, 9 gm fat, 1.3 gm sat fat, 24 gm carb, 1.5 gm fiber. .
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Eating with Melanie and Adrian
La Vie, San Francisco - Salt and pepper crab - satisfying. Bits and pieces good with the garlic noodles. My personal best in cracking crab. Big whole chunks. Tamarind crab - tasty, but sauce overpowers crab taste. Better with rice. Priced a little higher than thought, $130 for 3.
Kirala, Berkeley - nicely Japanese in all the right ways. Portions on the American side. Vegetable tempura, lacy. Cha soba, with raw quail egg. Prices reasonable, about $80 for 4.
La Costa, Oakland - perfect combo - the cerviche tostada (fresh), the carne asada torta with avocado and mayo (fatty), and cocktel (seafood gaspacho $13 - fresh). For $20 something, pretty amazing.
Zuni chicken - love the currant-scallion-garlic-pine nuts combo with bread in chicken juices. The salty crispy skin. So wrong, so good. Great picnic food. Made individual boxes. Need to shorten the book's dense instructions.
Drunken chicken - poached in scallions and ginger. The let cool over night (out of the refrig - odd, yes, but no problems), add Chinese wine. Third day -- very nice. Clean, delicate.
Mimolette cheese (sort of French cheddar that looks like cataloupe rind), plus nori and white bread. Good. Decent. Maybe repeatable. A combination I got from a Japanese cookbook. May need tweaking to move above average.
Mendocino honey mustard. Nicely balanced, heat, some sweetness. Great with bread. Great for dipping Aidells mini chicken sausages. For $4 something, amazing.
Kirala, Berkeley - nicely Japanese in all the right ways. Portions on the American side. Vegetable tempura, lacy. Cha soba, with raw quail egg. Prices reasonable, about $80 for 4.
La Costa, Oakland - perfect combo - the cerviche tostada (fresh), the carne asada torta with avocado and mayo (fatty), and cocktel (seafood gaspacho $13 - fresh). For $20 something, pretty amazing.
Zuni chicken - love the currant-scallion-garlic-pine nuts combo with bread in chicken juices. The salty crispy skin. So wrong, so good. Great picnic food. Made individual boxes. Need to shorten the book's dense instructions.
Drunken chicken - poached in scallions and ginger. The let cool over night (out of the refrig - odd, yes, but no problems), add Chinese wine. Third day -- very nice. Clean, delicate.
Mimolette cheese (sort of French cheddar that looks like cataloupe rind), plus nori and white bread. Good. Decent. Maybe repeatable. A combination I got from a Japanese cookbook. May need tweaking to move above average.
Mendocino honey mustard. Nicely balanced, heat, some sweetness. Great with bread. Great for dipping Aidells mini chicken sausages. For $4 something, amazing.
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Monterey-ish
Afonsos -- artichoke enchiladas, $8.95 + quirky Romanian waitress.
Moss landing Inn, Whole Enchiladas - Chicken Chipolte soup -- recommended by bartender at Mike's.
Moss landing Inn, Whole Enchiladas - Chicken Chipolte soup -- recommended by bartender at Mike's.
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Next project: limoncello
Ingredients
- 10 lemons
- 1 (750-ml) bottle vodka
- 3 1/2 cups water
- 2 1/2 cups sugar
Directions
Using a vegetable peeler, remove the peel from the lemons in long strips (reserve the lemons for another use). Using a small sharp knife, trim away the white pith from the lemon peels; discard the pith. Place the lemon peels in a 2-quart pitcher. Pour the vodka over the peels and cover with plastic wrap. Steep the lemon peels in the vodka for 4 days at room temperature.Stir the water and sugar in a large saucepan over medium heat until the sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Cool completely. Pour the sugar syrup over the vodka mixture. Cover and let stand at room temperature overnight. Strain the limoncello through a mesh strainer. Discard the peels. Transfer the limoncello to bottles. Seal the bottles and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours and up to 1 month.
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Tumeric
Whole wheat pancakes with almonds, dried cranberries, and tumeric. Crunchy like cornmeal, and slightly savory, even with maple syrup and butter. Next time - spike with diced up ham. Wild card - dried shrimp, or the dried little fishies from the Korean market -- green onion.
Discovered a couple weeks ago -- full moon, 4 am, that I have two bottles of tumeric. One unopened. So earlier this week -- mini hamburgers with garlic, parsley, chopped up napa cabbage, and tumeric.
Discovered a couple weeks ago -- full moon, 4 am, that I have two bottles of tumeric. One unopened. So earlier this week -- mini hamburgers with garlic, parsley, chopped up napa cabbage, and tumeric.
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Saturday, February 27, 2010
My First Preserved Lemons - Day 1
I just bottled my first jar of preserved lemons. What will I do with them? Make salad dressing and Morrocan stew, lamb. Later I'll try to make a Chinese version, and other versions with bay leaves and other spices. But for my first bottle, simple, and unadorned.
Sunset Magazine suggests boiling the lemons -- I'm guessing there's some tradeoff between the lemons going bad vs. taste. Boiling makes it less likely to go bad, but may also result in less flavor. If this simple non-boil recipe doesn't work, I figure I'll try the boiling method.
Ming Tsai has a version and related recipes. Preserved lemon-edamame tapenade. Preserved lemon polenta.
Adding oil or not. I didn't add the oil. Maybe later. Feel like it might get in the way. Eventually, I'ld like to make the Chinese version with green lemons and putting them in jars outside so the sun. It reminds me of Hawaii where you'd see homes with a big jar of brown lemons on the roof. I had a cool punch with preserved lemons, mui, and 70up and other stuff that was super good at Leslie's bridal shower which might be nicely enhanced with some vodka. A kind of Chinese lemon drop.
Next: Chili oil with black bean, and if super motivated -- an attempt at Thai basil oil. Which may happen if people keep flaking on me. : )
From Martha Stewart:
Makes 8 preserved lemons
- 8 lemons, plus more as needed
- Juice of 4 lemons, plus more as needed
- Coarse salt
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Directions
- Leaving one end in tact, cut lemons lengthwise into quarters. Using your fingers, stuff about 2 tablespoons salt inside each lemon, close them, and transfer to an 8-cup, sterilized, wide-mouth jar.
- Measure juice in a liquid measuring cup, add to jar along with half that amount of water, making sure liquid almost covers lemons. Add more freshly squeezed lemon juice, if necessary.
- Loosely cover jar and let stand, at room temperature, for 2 days, shaking the bottle each day.
- If there is room, add more cut lemons with salt and add to jar, covering with more lemon juice, if necessary, and olive oil. Cover jar and let stand at room temperature at least 3 weeks.
- To use lemons, rinse with water. Remove seeds and pith and discard. Use peel as desired.
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